On Friday, I boarded a small plane in Nome and headed up to Shishmaref. Weather was beautiful...very few clouds and sunny. The pilot was one I recognized from a previous trip. There were three other people on the plane....one from the same training I was at and two other guys who, as it turned out, were headed to Shishmaref to do a vision screening for the villagers. Their trip last week had been postponed due to the foggy weather. Flying up here is totally dependent on the weather and plans can change rather quickly.
Anyway....as we're leaving the airport, I am doing my usual gawking out the window and I'm thinking, "We're not going up very high....we're fairly close to the ground....at least compared to what I have been seeing in all my previous flights." I look ahead through the windshield and I see lots of big hills and mountains and I'm thinking, "Come on....aren't we suppose to be a little higher?" The answer to that....nope! Consequently, I had yet another awesome experience. The pilot flew through the pass...between the mountains which had snow on the top....and close enough to the ground to see our shadow as we flew over the tundra. It was so beautiful and nothing like I've ever seen before. When we got closer to Shishmaref, it was neat to be able to see it so clearly and from a different perspective in relationship to the mainland and to the Chukchi Sea. The tundra is starting to change to the autumn colors, too.
After landing, I noticed a barge had arrived on the shoreline....delivering fuel. Gas will be going up to over $7.00 a gallon up here soon.
My dear friends, the Webbs, invited me to supper as soon as I got home. We had spaghetti topped off with a vanilla shake from the Snack Shack. It was so good! It's the first ice cream shake since July in Michigan, I think. I suppose that's not all that long but it seems like it. I know I sure enjoyed the fries in Nome! Speaking of which, I ate at Subway in Nome and sat by a big picture window overlooking the Bering Sea. The food was the same but the view from Nome's Subway....breathtaking. The waves were only like 20-30 feet away.
Our school year in Shishmaref begins on Monday. The "big" school will have kids but the ECE will have two workdays and kids arrive on Wednesday. I'm truly looking forward to it. As the poster in my room said..."Everyone is a Student, Everyone is a Teacher"....this year more so than before for me! I'm learning so much.
As for learning so much, I wish my kids were here.....I got a new iPad2 today....and have very little idea on how to use it! Oh, yes....speaking of my kids....I Skyped with my son, Daniel, earlier and that went well....so I am learning new things. My thoughts go out to my daughter, Jessica, who called me two nights in a row because there was a bat in her house. From over 3000 miles away, my advice was to keep the lights on and close the bedroom door....and call someone down there for help! I did tell her there are no bats up here....grizzly and polar bears....but no bats! No snakes either...but tons of flies....like the one that just landed on my computer screen.
Good night from the Land of the Midnight Sun!
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
Guess What I Did in Nome!
After a bit of confusion and cancellation on Sunday concerning my plan to fly to Nome for ECE (Early Childhood Education) training, I am here in Nome. I arrived yesterday around 6:30 p.m. and I was the only one on the flight. What I could see of the landscape through the clouds was...well, fascinating. I'm going to have to come up with some more descriptive words! I'm simply in awe of everything I see and experience.
I must say...Nome is bigger than I realized it was the first time I came through here earlier in the month. I took the usual tourist pictures by the Iditarod sign and such. Plus, there are two more things now on my list of experiences....
I tried muktuk today....whale blubber. It was really tough. Taste wasn't bad but I really had a difficult time chewing it and finally gave up after getting only a nip off a corner. I guess it's something you just chew and chew and chew. I'm still waiting for the chance to try Eskimo ice cream and seal oil.
Guess what? I finally found one! In the bigger towns/cities that have paved roads up here (Anchorage, Unalakleet, and Nome), I looked for the EJIW sewer grates....and I FINALLY found ONE today. Otherwise, it's been the ones from Neenah, WI....even here in Nome. But it just so happened that I found one today with "East Jordan Iron Works" on it. I had a friend take my picture and as we were doing that, some people came by to ask us if we were ok. I mean, how many people kneel down and point at sewer grates and take pictures? Well, I would bet lots of people from East Jordan do in their travels. I assured the folks I was fine....just that I was from East Jordan, Michigan where that grate was made!
I heard that beluga whales were passing by Shishmaref over the weekend. It's not something they normally hunt for. Most of the villagers were headed to the mainland to hunt for moose which were on the run. I look forward to hearing when I get back if anyone was successful.
Wowzer dowzer....our training here in Nome on this new assessment program we'll be using is pretty intense. It's one of four main assessments we'll be doing. Makes me wonder why I didn't stay in retirement!!! Kidding! I am having the experience of a lifetime and I'm up for the challenge. There are good people up here offering support and the folks I'll be working with in the ECE program in Shishmaref are really nice.
Catch ya later!
I must say...Nome is bigger than I realized it was the first time I came through here earlier in the month. I took the usual tourist pictures by the Iditarod sign and such. Plus, there are two more things now on my list of experiences....
I tried muktuk today....whale blubber. It was really tough. Taste wasn't bad but I really had a difficult time chewing it and finally gave up after getting only a nip off a corner. I guess it's something you just chew and chew and chew. I'm still waiting for the chance to try Eskimo ice cream and seal oil.
Guess what? I finally found one! In the bigger towns/cities that have paved roads up here (Anchorage, Unalakleet, and Nome), I looked for the EJIW sewer grates....and I FINALLY found ONE today. Otherwise, it's been the ones from Neenah, WI....even here in Nome. But it just so happened that I found one today with "East Jordan Iron Works" on it. I had a friend take my picture and as we were doing that, some people came by to ask us if we were ok. I mean, how many people kneel down and point at sewer grates and take pictures? Well, I would bet lots of people from East Jordan do in their travels. I assured the folks I was fine....just that I was from East Jordan, Michigan where that grate was made!
I heard that beluga whales were passing by Shishmaref over the weekend. It's not something they normally hunt for. Most of the villagers were headed to the mainland to hunt for moose which were on the run. I look forward to hearing when I get back if anyone was successful.
Wowzer dowzer....our training here in Nome on this new assessment program we'll be using is pretty intense. It's one of four main assessments we'll be doing. Makes me wonder why I didn't stay in retirement!!! Kidding! I am having the experience of a lifetime and I'm up for the challenge. There are good people up here offering support and the folks I'll be working with in the ECE program in Shishmaref are really nice.
Catch ya later!
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Good Grief!
Hey, Friends and Family! Man, this computer stuff is driving me nuts. Where's Mike Wise when I need him? There are some great folks up here in Shishmaref, too, who have been helping me out. However, it's not only Sunday and most folks are at home, but the WHOLE staff (except me) flew off to Savoonga today for a School Improvement Grant training for the week. You folks back in East Jordan can appreciate that. Me? I was supposed to go to Nome for the week for an Early Childhood Education training session. I was actually looking forward to meeting some more ECE folks from the Bering Strait School District (BSSD) AND we were to stay in a hotel....with running water and flushing toilets. Woohoo! But, alas! I got an urgent phone message just a bit ago informing me that my trip had to be cancelled due to a mix-up at the hotel. So, here I am....all alone in the "big" school working on my blog.
The good part....I FINALLY figure out how to access my blog. I have been trying most of the past week and just could not get to it....partly because it's been so busy up here and mostly because it appeared to be blocked. That's where Mike Wise would have come in. BTW, hope things are going well for you, Mike! You'd be proud of me....the things I'm having to learn to do with the help of the computer is mind-boggling! I sat in on my first VTC session earlier last week. Fortunately, I just had to show up and sit down and listen! I didn't have to do any of the hook-ups, etc. Whew! Fifteen school sites from around the BSSD (80,000 square miles, I'm told) joined in. It was neat seeing all sites check in and to see some of the people I met down in Anchorage at the BSSD Welcome Wagon. We listened to and watched as the superintendent gave a welcoming speech.
So....what has happened since I last checked in here? Hmmmm.....I should go back to see what I wrote. Hang on....ok, looks like I have a lot to write. Here goes...I may be mixed up on dates of events which probably doesn't matter...you probably just want to read about my adventures.
Recently, I was invited to go berry picking with a fellow teacher and his wife and children. Berry picking means heading out in a boat across the Shishmaref Inlet towards the mainland. It turned quite nice at one point in the afternoon and the dash was on to get the boat out. Shucks! It also meant that I missed the window of opportunity for the "polar bear dip" because that, too, was slated spur-of-the-moment when the sun came out. You can tell I'm really broken-hearted, huh? Really, truly...I did bring my swimsuit up for the event....but if you could see the waves that crash unto the shore from the cold Chukchi Sea...well, I'm glad that Ken and Lisa asked me to go berry picking.
The first order of business is to get to where the boat is anchored in the lagoon. It's several feet out but in water you can wade out in without getting wet. Once in the boat, you head across the inlet which was a bit rough but not too bad. Then you head up the Serpentine River to the berry sites. To pick salmon berries (cloudberries), you shore up to a flat area of land that is incredibly spongy as you walk around...pretty neat...until Ken told me not to stay in one spot too long or I'd sink. I did a pretty fast high step in rubber boots that didn't fit! Can you hear in your mind the sound of boots being sucked off your feet? I did manage to pick a few berries while gazing out over the incredible view of the tundra and neighboring hillsides. So different from Northern Michigan but so beautiful, too, in its own right.
Next up, back in the boat and further up the river and off to the blueberries. The terrain got a little more hilly and more brush along the shoreline. We passed several small cabins where families go for days to pick berries, fish and hunt. Keep in mind, Lower 48 folks, that this is their "trip to Glen's Market"....only it's a lot more involved and harder and never a sure thing.
When we shored up below the blueberry hill, Lisa says to Ken, "I think you should take your rifle." My ears perk up....rifle? "Yeah, for the bear." Bear? "Yeah, brown bear...that can get up to 10 feet tall." Ok....again I'm reminded I'm in Alaska. Now the thing is, Ken got out of the boat for a bit and decided he didn't need his rifle. We head across the land and that in itself was no easy task. The land is very tufted and difficult to walk on...and through the dense brush to boot. The hillside and the blueberry bushes were pretty tangled, too. But I managed....and I sure don't want to whine....because Lisa did it with ease....and she's 8 months pregnant! Of course, she wasn't stopping every 2-3 minutes to look up and survey the area for bears! The landscape...oh, my gosh! So beautiful...so different. I did pick some berries but my fingers, by then, were getting pretty cold. I probably dropped half of what I was able to pick. It was finally time to leave so we headed to the boat where we ate our packed lunches. You see, this wasn't some short little trip we were on and there was no McDonald's out there to zip into. In all, we were probably gone for 7 hours. How does that compare to my short drive down the hill from my house to Glen's Market? But, wait....there's more!
We get in the boat and Ken and his daughter inform us that they just saw bear prints on the shore near the boat. Ok, we've seen enough of this beautiful part of Alaska...time to leave! At one point further down the river, Ken tells me to get my camera out as he heads the boat towards shore. On the opposite side of the river....oh, my gosh....a herd of musk oxen....AWESOME! The one thing about my camera and all the pictures I'm taking....it will NEVER do justice to everything I'm seeing up here. The birds...the plants and flowers....the clouds...the water....so different....so beautiful.
We finally get back out to the open water of the lagoon and the weather has changed....cloudy, windy, colder....and the water was quite choppy. Ken made the comment that the waves probably weren't as big as those in Lake Michigan....and that's true....but, man, the trip back to Shishmaref was ROUGH. I was so concerned for Lisa....remember, she's 8 months pregnant. But, heck, like Ken said...she's tough! BTW, Lisa heads to Nome this week where she will then stay until the baby is born. It's what happens up here....the women have to leave a certain amount of time before their due dates. Good luck, Lisa....I trust all will go well. I have another "Lisa story" in just a minute...back to the boat ride.
We made it to shore and it was now after 11:00 p.m. It was a great experience and one that reminded me that life up here is very different than back in East Jordan. Berries are a big part of the diet up here and our trip took seven hours for the amount that we got...maybe a couple of gallon Ziplock bags full of each....not sure. People mix them with other berries and sometimes add sugar. Or, yup....they mix them with Crisco or, I think, seal oil to make Eskimo ice cream....which I haven't tried....yet. I hope to. I'm being invited to some of the birthday parties up here so I might get the chance. I will share later what they do for birthday parties. I've only heard about them....I haven't been to one yet.
I want to skip back to before we left on the trip. I got to meet Lisa's father who was working on a boat and feeding his dogs out by where we walked out to Ken's boat. Another couple were there and I was introduced....Clara and Shelton Kokeok. For those of you who saw me before I left East Jordan back in July, I was showing you the book I came across that I had had in my classroom for several years without realizing what an important part it would play in my life. The book is "Eskimo Boy" and it's about Norman Kokeok (Shelton and Clara's son). I came across the book after bringing home all my accumulated books from 31 years of teaching in Michigan. I was sorting through my books to decide which books to bring to Shishmaref with me when I came across "Eskimo Boy" one evening. I thought, "Hmmm....guess I should look through this book again to familiarize myself with the culture." Oh, my gosh! I NEVER realized that the book was written about Shishmaref....it just never clicked....and I've had this book in my room for years. I take it as a sign that this is where I was meant to be. Anyway, the book is about Norman and his life in Shishmaref. Norman's brothers, sister, parents, and grandmother are pictured in the book, too, along with pictures of the village. I got in touch with fellow teacher, Ken, yet again, who sadly informed me that Norman passed away four years ago in a tragic ice accident out on the East channel. Even before arriving in Shishmaref, I was aware that Warren and John, his brothers and custodians at the school, were hauling my shipped-up boxes to the school from the post office. I felt that I was getting to know the family even before arriving. Ken's youngest boy is named after Norman....a common honor to bestow upon children born near the time of the passing of a loved one. Yet again, I feel a special connection with the people here and the village of Shishmaref. It's hard to explain....
The people here are so very welcoming and friendly. I have never had so many handshakes in my life! I hope to be here for some time so that I can learn not only the names of these fine people but also more about the history of this area. Each day, another story is shared. I am learning more and more but it will take time.
Here's my "Lisa story"....or at least the parts I can tell on here! She'll know what I mean if she reads this and we can smile to ourselves. When I first arrived in Shishmaref, I told her I would like her to take me to bingo with her sometime. Well, she called me up Friday night and said, "We're going!" I hurried down to the bingo hall to join her and another friend. I had absolutely no clue what I was doing and they got quite a kick out of watching me struggle through the games. It was during our time together that Lisa finally found out how old I really am....and that I have two grown children of my own. I'm flattered to think she thought I was only 40 at one point (and I won't tell you the rest on here...although it's pretty funny). When I told her I was 59, her eyes got really big and we both laughed. I told her I'd consider her my new daughter!
When we were leaving the bingo hall, I noticed a posting on the bulletin board...."Parents...watch your children. There were mother and cub bear prints spotted out by the East channel." Hmmm...I guess I shouldn't plan to go out walking along the beach by myself anytime soon.
The days are starting to get shorter here....but it's still light out around midnight. It's not as light as when I first got here on August 3 when I was staying up until 2:00 a.m. thinking it was like 7:00 in the evening. The weather changes so dramatically and quickly. It's been mostly cloudy, cool and windy. There have been maybe three days of sunshine and it doesn't last. There were a couple days of intense fog that caused daily flights to be canceled. That caused the mail to be backed up for a few days. I've felt the winds blowing in from the north.....a hint of what's coming.....and believe me, it's COLD.
I know I've said it many times.....I do have pictures to show. Be patient. I have had the chance to Skype with my daughter and then again last night, I Skyped with my son. I was able to walk around a little bit with my laptop to try to show him some of the sights around the school. I was able to show him some of the incredible artwork in the showcase by the office. I will start a collection of my own while I'm up here....but I need to wait for my paychecks to start coming in! The craftsmanship up here is pretty incredible.
Food? I am eating regular food that I ate down in Michigan. I had sent up a lot of boxed items and such and when I was in Anchorage, I was able to shop at Walmart and ship up more of the types of food we eat. I have had dried salmon and I have had some salmon fillets given to me...although I haven't fixed them yet. I'm willing to try seal oil when it's offered. Oh, there is a Snack Shack up here that caters to the fast-food cravings....cheeseburgers, nachos, burritos, fries, shakes. I haven't tried it yet but now that I'm here in Shishmaref this week without other staff members around, I might just have to treat myself! It won't be the same without Diane with me!
Oh, I thought of something else I want to share with you. My water in the house comes from a 165 gallon tank in one of the rooms in my house. When it needs refilling (as it did recently), I have to make arrangements to have that done....or do it myself. I doubt I'll be doing it....at least for now. So, my good neighbor, Don, took his 4-wheeler and a trailer to the school to load up an empty plastic tank. He then took it to the washeteria to fill it with water. Then he drove it back to my house, backed in the trailer as best he could, hooked up a long hose in the outside tank and brought the other end into the house, through the hallway, and into the room where my storage tank is. Then he had to prime a pump and voila! The water is sucked into my holding tank from the outside tank. I believe that cost $3.00 for the load. Don will never let me pay him anything for all his time and trouble....and believe me, he and his family have taken me under their wings to help me get by up here. I've had some pretty good meals with them. Anyway, that's how I get my water. I try to use it sparingly. We shower at the school and that's also where we do our laundry. I also use the toilet there whenever possible because it's simply a lot easier than dumping the honey bucket. But, I am now the proud owner of my own outside honey bin! The city finally delivered one this past week. I'm set to go now!
I recounted my steps from my home to the school....it's more like 450 steps. I miscounted, Miss Maggie, when I told you 300 something! When I was preparing to move up here, I thought I would be in a different house which like 15-20 steps from the school. Teacher housing is spread out throughout the village and on both sides of the island. I'm on the inlet side where I can see dramatic weather changes across the lagoon towards Ear Mountain and Egg Island (where the villagers go in the springtime to gather eggs).
(Boo hoo....I hear the plane coming in that would have taken me out in about a half hour. Oh, well. I know that the minister and his wife and son are headed out on it. They are going on a three-week vacation down to Minnesota.)
Finally, school starts for the "big" kids on August 29. My little folks start on August 31. I haven't been able to do a whole lot in my classroom yet because I work alongside a group of people from Kawerak (a Native Corporation program) and I need to wait until they start work. I'm not sure what's going to happen this week because we were all supposed to meet in Nome together. Oh, well. Anyway, on the 29th, all the "big" kids will meet in the gym for a "Welcome Message" and from what I gather, the older kids will continue each morning with a gathering in the gym prior to school starting. Once I get started with my kids, I'll have more to share on that experience, too. I've also volunteered to coach a "Battle of the Books" team....that's a big thing up here in Alaska. I'll share more about that as the time approaches.
All in all, it's been a great start to my new adventure. I've tried to keep an open mind and listening ears. Afterall, one thing new teachers and administrators should remember is that we can learn from what's been done before us. We have two ears, two eyes, and one mouth....and they should be used in that proportion. I'm amazed at what I've learned already up here....and I'm reminded that the more I learn, the more I realize how much I have to learn. I'm also greatly impressed at how much the elders are respected up here....they've "been there, done that" and they do possess a great deal of knowledge that they are very willing to share....just ask.
Take care and TTFN!
The good part....I FINALLY figure out how to access my blog. I have been trying most of the past week and just could not get to it....partly because it's been so busy up here and mostly because it appeared to be blocked. That's where Mike Wise would have come in. BTW, hope things are going well for you, Mike! You'd be proud of me....the things I'm having to learn to do with the help of the computer is mind-boggling! I sat in on my first VTC session earlier last week. Fortunately, I just had to show up and sit down and listen! I didn't have to do any of the hook-ups, etc. Whew! Fifteen school sites from around the BSSD (80,000 square miles, I'm told) joined in. It was neat seeing all sites check in and to see some of the people I met down in Anchorage at the BSSD Welcome Wagon. We listened to and watched as the superintendent gave a welcoming speech.
So....what has happened since I last checked in here? Hmmmm.....I should go back to see what I wrote. Hang on....ok, looks like I have a lot to write. Here goes...I may be mixed up on dates of events which probably doesn't matter...you probably just want to read about my adventures.
Recently, I was invited to go berry picking with a fellow teacher and his wife and children. Berry picking means heading out in a boat across the Shishmaref Inlet towards the mainland. It turned quite nice at one point in the afternoon and the dash was on to get the boat out. Shucks! It also meant that I missed the window of opportunity for the "polar bear dip" because that, too, was slated spur-of-the-moment when the sun came out. You can tell I'm really broken-hearted, huh? Really, truly...I did bring my swimsuit up for the event....but if you could see the waves that crash unto the shore from the cold Chukchi Sea...well, I'm glad that Ken and Lisa asked me to go berry picking.
The first order of business is to get to where the boat is anchored in the lagoon. It's several feet out but in water you can wade out in without getting wet. Once in the boat, you head across the inlet which was a bit rough but not too bad. Then you head up the Serpentine River to the berry sites. To pick salmon berries (cloudberries), you shore up to a flat area of land that is incredibly spongy as you walk around...pretty neat...until Ken told me not to stay in one spot too long or I'd sink. I did a pretty fast high step in rubber boots that didn't fit! Can you hear in your mind the sound of boots being sucked off your feet? I did manage to pick a few berries while gazing out over the incredible view of the tundra and neighboring hillsides. So different from Northern Michigan but so beautiful, too, in its own right.
Next up, back in the boat and further up the river and off to the blueberries. The terrain got a little more hilly and more brush along the shoreline. We passed several small cabins where families go for days to pick berries, fish and hunt. Keep in mind, Lower 48 folks, that this is their "trip to Glen's Market"....only it's a lot more involved and harder and never a sure thing.
When we shored up below the blueberry hill, Lisa says to Ken, "I think you should take your rifle." My ears perk up....rifle? "Yeah, for the bear." Bear? "Yeah, brown bear...that can get up to 10 feet tall." Ok....again I'm reminded I'm in Alaska. Now the thing is, Ken got out of the boat for a bit and decided he didn't need his rifle. We head across the land and that in itself was no easy task. The land is very tufted and difficult to walk on...and through the dense brush to boot. The hillside and the blueberry bushes were pretty tangled, too. But I managed....and I sure don't want to whine....because Lisa did it with ease....and she's 8 months pregnant! Of course, she wasn't stopping every 2-3 minutes to look up and survey the area for bears! The landscape...oh, my gosh! So beautiful...so different. I did pick some berries but my fingers, by then, were getting pretty cold. I probably dropped half of what I was able to pick. It was finally time to leave so we headed to the boat where we ate our packed lunches. You see, this wasn't some short little trip we were on and there was no McDonald's out there to zip into. In all, we were probably gone for 7 hours. How does that compare to my short drive down the hill from my house to Glen's Market? But, wait....there's more!
We get in the boat and Ken and his daughter inform us that they just saw bear prints on the shore near the boat. Ok, we've seen enough of this beautiful part of Alaska...time to leave! At one point further down the river, Ken tells me to get my camera out as he heads the boat towards shore. On the opposite side of the river....oh, my gosh....a herd of musk oxen....AWESOME! The one thing about my camera and all the pictures I'm taking....it will NEVER do justice to everything I'm seeing up here. The birds...the plants and flowers....the clouds...the water....so different....so beautiful.
We finally get back out to the open water of the lagoon and the weather has changed....cloudy, windy, colder....and the water was quite choppy. Ken made the comment that the waves probably weren't as big as those in Lake Michigan....and that's true....but, man, the trip back to Shishmaref was ROUGH. I was so concerned for Lisa....remember, she's 8 months pregnant. But, heck, like Ken said...she's tough! BTW, Lisa heads to Nome this week where she will then stay until the baby is born. It's what happens up here....the women have to leave a certain amount of time before their due dates. Good luck, Lisa....I trust all will go well. I have another "Lisa story" in just a minute...back to the boat ride.
We made it to shore and it was now after 11:00 p.m. It was a great experience and one that reminded me that life up here is very different than back in East Jordan. Berries are a big part of the diet up here and our trip took seven hours for the amount that we got...maybe a couple of gallon Ziplock bags full of each....not sure. People mix them with other berries and sometimes add sugar. Or, yup....they mix them with Crisco or, I think, seal oil to make Eskimo ice cream....which I haven't tried....yet. I hope to. I'm being invited to some of the birthday parties up here so I might get the chance. I will share later what they do for birthday parties. I've only heard about them....I haven't been to one yet.
I want to skip back to before we left on the trip. I got to meet Lisa's father who was working on a boat and feeding his dogs out by where we walked out to Ken's boat. Another couple were there and I was introduced....Clara and Shelton Kokeok. For those of you who saw me before I left East Jordan back in July, I was showing you the book I came across that I had had in my classroom for several years without realizing what an important part it would play in my life. The book is "Eskimo Boy" and it's about Norman Kokeok (Shelton and Clara's son). I came across the book after bringing home all my accumulated books from 31 years of teaching in Michigan. I was sorting through my books to decide which books to bring to Shishmaref with me when I came across "Eskimo Boy" one evening. I thought, "Hmmm....guess I should look through this book again to familiarize myself with the culture." Oh, my gosh! I NEVER realized that the book was written about Shishmaref....it just never clicked....and I've had this book in my room for years. I take it as a sign that this is where I was meant to be. Anyway, the book is about Norman and his life in Shishmaref. Norman's brothers, sister, parents, and grandmother are pictured in the book, too, along with pictures of the village. I got in touch with fellow teacher, Ken, yet again, who sadly informed me that Norman passed away four years ago in a tragic ice accident out on the East channel. Even before arriving in Shishmaref, I was aware that Warren and John, his brothers and custodians at the school, were hauling my shipped-up boxes to the school from the post office. I felt that I was getting to know the family even before arriving. Ken's youngest boy is named after Norman....a common honor to bestow upon children born near the time of the passing of a loved one. Yet again, I feel a special connection with the people here and the village of Shishmaref. It's hard to explain....
The people here are so very welcoming and friendly. I have never had so many handshakes in my life! I hope to be here for some time so that I can learn not only the names of these fine people but also more about the history of this area. Each day, another story is shared. I am learning more and more but it will take time.
Here's my "Lisa story"....or at least the parts I can tell on here! She'll know what I mean if she reads this and we can smile to ourselves. When I first arrived in Shishmaref, I told her I would like her to take me to bingo with her sometime. Well, she called me up Friday night and said, "We're going!" I hurried down to the bingo hall to join her and another friend. I had absolutely no clue what I was doing and they got quite a kick out of watching me struggle through the games. It was during our time together that Lisa finally found out how old I really am....and that I have two grown children of my own. I'm flattered to think she thought I was only 40 at one point (and I won't tell you the rest on here...although it's pretty funny). When I told her I was 59, her eyes got really big and we both laughed. I told her I'd consider her my new daughter!
When we were leaving the bingo hall, I noticed a posting on the bulletin board...."Parents...watch your children. There were mother and cub bear prints spotted out by the East channel." Hmmm...I guess I shouldn't plan to go out walking along the beach by myself anytime soon.
The days are starting to get shorter here....but it's still light out around midnight. It's not as light as when I first got here on August 3 when I was staying up until 2:00 a.m. thinking it was like 7:00 in the evening. The weather changes so dramatically and quickly. It's been mostly cloudy, cool and windy. There have been maybe three days of sunshine and it doesn't last. There were a couple days of intense fog that caused daily flights to be canceled. That caused the mail to be backed up for a few days. I've felt the winds blowing in from the north.....a hint of what's coming.....and believe me, it's COLD.
I know I've said it many times.....I do have pictures to show. Be patient. I have had the chance to Skype with my daughter and then again last night, I Skyped with my son. I was able to walk around a little bit with my laptop to try to show him some of the sights around the school. I was able to show him some of the incredible artwork in the showcase by the office. I will start a collection of my own while I'm up here....but I need to wait for my paychecks to start coming in! The craftsmanship up here is pretty incredible.
Food? I am eating regular food that I ate down in Michigan. I had sent up a lot of boxed items and such and when I was in Anchorage, I was able to shop at Walmart and ship up more of the types of food we eat. I have had dried salmon and I have had some salmon fillets given to me...although I haven't fixed them yet. I'm willing to try seal oil when it's offered. Oh, there is a Snack Shack up here that caters to the fast-food cravings....cheeseburgers, nachos, burritos, fries, shakes. I haven't tried it yet but now that I'm here in Shishmaref this week without other staff members around, I might just have to treat myself! It won't be the same without Diane with me!
Oh, I thought of something else I want to share with you. My water in the house comes from a 165 gallon tank in one of the rooms in my house. When it needs refilling (as it did recently), I have to make arrangements to have that done....or do it myself. I doubt I'll be doing it....at least for now. So, my good neighbor, Don, took his 4-wheeler and a trailer to the school to load up an empty plastic tank. He then took it to the washeteria to fill it with water. Then he drove it back to my house, backed in the trailer as best he could, hooked up a long hose in the outside tank and brought the other end into the house, through the hallway, and into the room where my storage tank is. Then he had to prime a pump and voila! The water is sucked into my holding tank from the outside tank. I believe that cost $3.00 for the load. Don will never let me pay him anything for all his time and trouble....and believe me, he and his family have taken me under their wings to help me get by up here. I've had some pretty good meals with them. Anyway, that's how I get my water. I try to use it sparingly. We shower at the school and that's also where we do our laundry. I also use the toilet there whenever possible because it's simply a lot easier than dumping the honey bucket. But, I am now the proud owner of my own outside honey bin! The city finally delivered one this past week. I'm set to go now!
I recounted my steps from my home to the school....it's more like 450 steps. I miscounted, Miss Maggie, when I told you 300 something! When I was preparing to move up here, I thought I would be in a different house which like 15-20 steps from the school. Teacher housing is spread out throughout the village and on both sides of the island. I'm on the inlet side where I can see dramatic weather changes across the lagoon towards Ear Mountain and Egg Island (where the villagers go in the springtime to gather eggs).
(Boo hoo....I hear the plane coming in that would have taken me out in about a half hour. Oh, well. I know that the minister and his wife and son are headed out on it. They are going on a three-week vacation down to Minnesota.)
Finally, school starts for the "big" kids on August 29. My little folks start on August 31. I haven't been able to do a whole lot in my classroom yet because I work alongside a group of people from Kawerak (a Native Corporation program) and I need to wait until they start work. I'm not sure what's going to happen this week because we were all supposed to meet in Nome together. Oh, well. Anyway, on the 29th, all the "big" kids will meet in the gym for a "Welcome Message" and from what I gather, the older kids will continue each morning with a gathering in the gym prior to school starting. Once I get started with my kids, I'll have more to share on that experience, too. I've also volunteered to coach a "Battle of the Books" team....that's a big thing up here in Alaska. I'll share more about that as the time approaches.
All in all, it's been a great start to my new adventure. I've tried to keep an open mind and listening ears. Afterall, one thing new teachers and administrators should remember is that we can learn from what's been done before us. We have two ears, two eyes, and one mouth....and they should be used in that proportion. I'm amazed at what I've learned already up here....and I'm reminded that the more I learn, the more I realize how much I have to learn. I'm also greatly impressed at how much the elders are respected up here....they've "been there, done that" and they do possess a great deal of knowledge that they are very willing to share....just ask.
Take care and TTFN!
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Back Home!
Greetings! I'm back in Shishmaref...although it was a little iffy out of Unalakleet yesterday. I've been warned that often flights won't make it out and some of our teachers did not get to their final destinations yesterday. I do find the flying from place to place interesting though....and to think I used to be so afraid of flying once!
I am currently at the school where I have showered and am doing my laundry and using the internet...and the flush toilets! The weather is quite blustery out...it's been rainy and windy. The waves are intense off the sea. I will not enjoy my walk home...oh, well. I am not complaining because Helen, my neighbor and the high school special ed teacher, drove me down here on the 4-wheeler.
It's after 10:00 and light out. That is so weird! I believe someone told me that there is a curfew of midnight for weekends and summer and 10:00 for school nights. I can understand how hard it is to get kids to bed when it stays light so very late.
Many folks are out camping to do subsistence hunting, fishing and berry picking. I've had the good fortune of trying salmonberries...quite tasty. I watched my neighbor's daughter, Maggie, prepare salmon for the outside drying racks today. Several of us "newbies" visited with her and then with her mother, Elizabeth and her daughter, Denise. Elizabeth Nayokpuk is the wife of Herbie Nayokpuk (now deceased)....the Shishmaref Cannonball. He raced in the Iditarod. Elizabeth was showing Denise how to do the beading for the sealskin slippers. Denise is quite a remarkable young lady. She's back here in Shishmaref from the Lower 48 to learn more of her family's culture and to learn the language (she already speaks Russian and another language as well). Elizabeth received more orders for sealskin slippers and such as we all gazed at the beautiful work. I'm told there are incredible craftspeople here in the village....ivory carvers and etchers, whalebone carvers, sealskin craftspeople, etc. I have also seen some artifacts retrieved not far from here....arrowheads and a tool used in making igloos.
I cannot wait to start posting some pictures. This is such an interesting village....it's hard to describe in words. To the north, the Chukchi Sea...to the south, the mainland just the other side of the Shishmaref Inlet or lagoon. The weather on both sides can be different and changes dramatically and quickly. The area between my home and the lagoon is grassy and has flowers throughout which are already changing with the seasons. Out the front of my house is a bit of a rise and I can just see a little bit of the sea. I'm fascinated with the way the "roads" and paths are cut out of the land around here. Oh, the cemetery is just to the east of my home. I'm told that there is a good shaman and a "not so good" shaman buried there near the upright whalebones and that you shouldn't pass through them. I'm glad I live right across from the Lutheran Church for protection! I was told my house was haunted, too, but I don't think so. It's very nice and bright. The work that has been done in there to make it so is greatly appreciated.
There is a post office here and two village stores. Just this week, AT&T came through with new DSL hook-ups so I will have to look into that. Otherwise, internet is through GCI which is what my cellphone plan is with. I do think I will get a land line though with unlimited long distance calling. I shudder to think what my phone bill will be for these past few weeks. I was calling family and friends with hourly updates as new things were happening!
That's got to be it for tonight....it's almost 11:30. Thanks for the emails....I may be 3000+ miles away but you are all right here in my heart and mind.
I am currently at the school where I have showered and am doing my laundry and using the internet...and the flush toilets! The weather is quite blustery out...it's been rainy and windy. The waves are intense off the sea. I will not enjoy my walk home...oh, well. I am not complaining because Helen, my neighbor and the high school special ed teacher, drove me down here on the 4-wheeler.
It's after 10:00 and light out. That is so weird! I believe someone told me that there is a curfew of midnight for weekends and summer and 10:00 for school nights. I can understand how hard it is to get kids to bed when it stays light so very late.
Many folks are out camping to do subsistence hunting, fishing and berry picking. I've had the good fortune of trying salmonberries...quite tasty. I watched my neighbor's daughter, Maggie, prepare salmon for the outside drying racks today. Several of us "newbies" visited with her and then with her mother, Elizabeth and her daughter, Denise. Elizabeth Nayokpuk is the wife of Herbie Nayokpuk (now deceased)....the Shishmaref Cannonball. He raced in the Iditarod. Elizabeth was showing Denise how to do the beading for the sealskin slippers. Denise is quite a remarkable young lady. She's back here in Shishmaref from the Lower 48 to learn more of her family's culture and to learn the language (she already speaks Russian and another language as well). Elizabeth received more orders for sealskin slippers and such as we all gazed at the beautiful work. I'm told there are incredible craftspeople here in the village....ivory carvers and etchers, whalebone carvers, sealskin craftspeople, etc. I have also seen some artifacts retrieved not far from here....arrowheads and a tool used in making igloos.
I cannot wait to start posting some pictures. This is such an interesting village....it's hard to describe in words. To the north, the Chukchi Sea...to the south, the mainland just the other side of the Shishmaref Inlet or lagoon. The weather on both sides can be different and changes dramatically and quickly. The area between my home and the lagoon is grassy and has flowers throughout which are already changing with the seasons. Out the front of my house is a bit of a rise and I can just see a little bit of the sea. I'm fascinated with the way the "roads" and paths are cut out of the land around here. Oh, the cemetery is just to the east of my home. I'm told that there is a good shaman and a "not so good" shaman buried there near the upright whalebones and that you shouldn't pass through them. I'm glad I live right across from the Lutheran Church for protection! I was told my house was haunted, too, but I don't think so. It's very nice and bright. The work that has been done in there to make it so is greatly appreciated.
There is a post office here and two village stores. Just this week, AT&T came through with new DSL hook-ups so I will have to look into that. Otherwise, internet is through GCI which is what my cellphone plan is with. I do think I will get a land line though with unlimited long distance calling. I shudder to think what my phone bill will be for these past few weeks. I was calling family and friends with hourly updates as new things were happening!
That's got to be it for tonight....it's almost 11:30. Thanks for the emails....I may be 3000+ miles away but you are all right here in my heart and mind.
Thursday, August 11, 2011
I'm Still Alive!
Hey, folks! My first posting from Alaska. One word....WOW! One sentence...Where to begin? I arrived in AK on Friday, July 29 after flying from Detroit to Seattle to Anchorage. My neck is still sore from turning and gawking out the window at all the incredible views. Actually, it's probably sore because I've had even more flights since arriving in Shishmaref....I'll explain....hang in there with me.
I was able to see parts of the Inside Passage on the way up. I can't wait for the chance to see that from a boat. Flying into Anchorage and seeing the glaciers....awesome. Then, while I was in Anchorage, I had the good fortune of meeting up with a long-time email pal who now lives in Anchorage and she drove me down to Whittier one evening. My camera got a workout that night! We also went up to Girdwood and saw Mt. Alyeska. The trip took us around Turnagain Bay and on the way down, the tide was out and the mud flats were exposed. Interesting patterns. At one point, a bore tide (not sure of the spelling) was coming in and that was pretty neat to see. There were two surfers trying to catch the wave! On the way back, the tide was in and the bay was so beautiful in the "somewhat" setting sun. The view of the glaciers along the way was...incredible. I used that word over and over....I was in awe. I had a wake-up call when we stopped at a little roadside park so I could use the bathroom. There was a sign..."Bear Alert" right by the path. Of course, I'm thinking, "Yeah, sort of like the "deer warning" signs we have in Michigan, right?" Wrong! My friend rolled down the car window and told me to make lots of noise as I was walking down the path to the bathroom. Ok....again....this ain't Kansas anymore, Toto!
Anchorage was a time for new teachers coming up to live in the Bush to do shopping and shipping, changing driver's licenses, getting new cell phone plans that will work in the Bush, starting new bank accounts, and shopping for winter clothing. HEY! I bought a pair of bunny boots....I'm so excited. You'll crack right up when I post a picture of those later on....but they WILL keep my feet warm in 40 below weather (or more).
While in Anchorage, I looked out my dorm window and saw MOOSE! I saw the tail end of the momma and two calves. What a hoot! I was so excited....right by the dorm. There was a warning sign on the door that day about the moose being sighted.
Also while in Anchorage, we visited Earthquake Park to see a very dramatic view of how the earth shifted during the earthquake in 1964. A portion of the land literally dropped, trees and all, several feet.
If you ever get to Anchorage, you might want to eat at the Moose's Tooth. Great food! There was one called Bear's Tooth, too, but the crowd was so big we didn't try waiting.
Onto my next leg of my journey....
On Wednesday, August 3, I boarded a plane from Anchorage to Nome. Fortunately, there were some fellow seasoned teachers on that leg of the journey. At the airport, I snickered as I watched two dog carriers being loaded with beautiful Husky dogs inside. A common sight in Alaska. When we arrived in Nome, they promptly called for a taxi from the airport to get us into "downtown" Nome where we were able to shop for our perishables to take with us into our villages. My bill was $140 for just a few necessities. Yikes! I will need to get used to that. But since my good friend, Diane and I will not get to eat out for a few months, I guess I can afford that now! The weather was rather nasty in Nome and the waves crashing onto shore were pretty intense. My friends took off on their flight to Brevig Mission. Oh, and on an earlier flight, the two Husky dogs from Anchorage flew off, too. Stay tuned....wait till I tell you what I saw in Nome on my most recent trip.
As I was waiting for my flight to Shishmaref, I turned to talk with a lady who was also waiting and I asked if she was flying to Shishmaref (SHH, by the way, which is how people up here refer to the villages...the airport codes). She smiled and said, "You must be one of the new teachers." I guess it must be written all over my confused face. When I nodded, she told me she was Esther which is a lady from Shishmaref who works at the school and I had been in touch with on Facebook before leaving East Jordan. Her hug was greatly welcomed. Off we flew....and I must comment on the cloud cover because it was different than any I've seen yet....it definitely looked pretty cold outside the plane....and we had a little bit of icing on the windows.
Landing in Shishmaref....again, my camera couldn't click fast enough. It seems like a blur now...looking back. I was finally where I am going to be spending a lot of time, I hope. It was such an overwhelming feeling....feelings of excitement, feelings of accomplishment, feelings of curiosity....you name it. Oh, and I was pretty tired, too. I was met by the assistant principal who drove me around the village as best he could. You see, there are no real "roads" in Shishmaref....well, not roads like "down home". Most people get around on 4-wheelers for the "roads" are more like well-worn paths crisscrossed with walking paths. For the first few days, I managed to get totally turned around a couple of times. Fortunately, my house is right across from the church so if I can see the steeple, I can head in that direction and find my way home.
I have sooooo much more to tell you....like the live reindeer chained in the back of a pick-up truck in the parking lot of the Nome airport. It was someone's pet! Only in Alaska!
Anyway, it's late again and because I am currently in the classroom where some friends are ready to crash for the night, I need to get back to my own classroom where I my air mattress is located. It's how teachers in the Bush travel and room at other schools when attending inservices. However, in just over a week, I get to go to Nome for yet another inservice and I will be sleeping in a hotel. That will be nice....because it sure is nice using a flush toilet! More on that later.
Please excuse any typing mistakes as I am not going to do a spellcheck here. I'm just learning how to use this laptop as it was just issued by the school. Besides, it's late...10:35 p.m. Down here in Unalakleet, it actually will get somewhat dark late. In Shishmaref, it's still quite light out at 2:00 a.m. That hasn't really bothered me too much....I've been so tired from all my unpacking and settling in that I fall asleep regardless.
I'll end by saying yet again that I am so fortunate to be experiencing what I am. The people have been so very nice and welcoming. Keep your dreams alive, folks. You just never know when and how things will work out for you. Oh, I was able to Skype with my daughter earlier tonight....I am really not that far away!
Good-night!
I was able to see parts of the Inside Passage on the way up. I can't wait for the chance to see that from a boat. Flying into Anchorage and seeing the glaciers....awesome. Then, while I was in Anchorage, I had the good fortune of meeting up with a long-time email pal who now lives in Anchorage and she drove me down to Whittier one evening. My camera got a workout that night! We also went up to Girdwood and saw Mt. Alyeska. The trip took us around Turnagain Bay and on the way down, the tide was out and the mud flats were exposed. Interesting patterns. At one point, a bore tide (not sure of the spelling) was coming in and that was pretty neat to see. There were two surfers trying to catch the wave! On the way back, the tide was in and the bay was so beautiful in the "somewhat" setting sun. The view of the glaciers along the way was...incredible. I used that word over and over....I was in awe. I had a wake-up call when we stopped at a little roadside park so I could use the bathroom. There was a sign..."Bear Alert" right by the path. Of course, I'm thinking, "Yeah, sort of like the "deer warning" signs we have in Michigan, right?" Wrong! My friend rolled down the car window and told me to make lots of noise as I was walking down the path to the bathroom. Ok....again....this ain't Kansas anymore, Toto!
Anchorage was a time for new teachers coming up to live in the Bush to do shopping and shipping, changing driver's licenses, getting new cell phone plans that will work in the Bush, starting new bank accounts, and shopping for winter clothing. HEY! I bought a pair of bunny boots....I'm so excited. You'll crack right up when I post a picture of those later on....but they WILL keep my feet warm in 40 below weather (or more).
While in Anchorage, I looked out my dorm window and saw MOOSE! I saw the tail end of the momma and two calves. What a hoot! I was so excited....right by the dorm. There was a warning sign on the door that day about the moose being sighted.
Also while in Anchorage, we visited Earthquake Park to see a very dramatic view of how the earth shifted during the earthquake in 1964. A portion of the land literally dropped, trees and all, several feet.
If you ever get to Anchorage, you might want to eat at the Moose's Tooth. Great food! There was one called Bear's Tooth, too, but the crowd was so big we didn't try waiting.
Onto my next leg of my journey....
On Wednesday, August 3, I boarded a plane from Anchorage to Nome. Fortunately, there were some fellow seasoned teachers on that leg of the journey. At the airport, I snickered as I watched two dog carriers being loaded with beautiful Husky dogs inside. A common sight in Alaska. When we arrived in Nome, they promptly called for a taxi from the airport to get us into "downtown" Nome where we were able to shop for our perishables to take with us into our villages. My bill was $140 for just a few necessities. Yikes! I will need to get used to that. But since my good friend, Diane and I will not get to eat out for a few months, I guess I can afford that now! The weather was rather nasty in Nome and the waves crashing onto shore were pretty intense. My friends took off on their flight to Brevig Mission. Oh, and on an earlier flight, the two Husky dogs from Anchorage flew off, too. Stay tuned....wait till I tell you what I saw in Nome on my most recent trip.
As I was waiting for my flight to Shishmaref, I turned to talk with a lady who was also waiting and I asked if she was flying to Shishmaref (SHH, by the way, which is how people up here refer to the villages...the airport codes). She smiled and said, "You must be one of the new teachers." I guess it must be written all over my confused face. When I nodded, she told me she was Esther which is a lady from Shishmaref who works at the school and I had been in touch with on Facebook before leaving East Jordan. Her hug was greatly welcomed. Off we flew....and I must comment on the cloud cover because it was different than any I've seen yet....it definitely looked pretty cold outside the plane....and we had a little bit of icing on the windows.
Landing in Shishmaref....again, my camera couldn't click fast enough. It seems like a blur now...looking back. I was finally where I am going to be spending a lot of time, I hope. It was such an overwhelming feeling....feelings of excitement, feelings of accomplishment, feelings of curiosity....you name it. Oh, and I was pretty tired, too. I was met by the assistant principal who drove me around the village as best he could. You see, there are no real "roads" in Shishmaref....well, not roads like "down home". Most people get around on 4-wheelers for the "roads" are more like well-worn paths crisscrossed with walking paths. For the first few days, I managed to get totally turned around a couple of times. Fortunately, my house is right across from the church so if I can see the steeple, I can head in that direction and find my way home.
I have sooooo much more to tell you....like the live reindeer chained in the back of a pick-up truck in the parking lot of the Nome airport. It was someone's pet! Only in Alaska!
Anyway, it's late again and because I am currently in the classroom where some friends are ready to crash for the night, I need to get back to my own classroom where I my air mattress is located. It's how teachers in the Bush travel and room at other schools when attending inservices. However, in just over a week, I get to go to Nome for yet another inservice and I will be sleeping in a hotel. That will be nice....because it sure is nice using a flush toilet! More on that later.
Please excuse any typing mistakes as I am not going to do a spellcheck here. I'm just learning how to use this laptop as it was just issued by the school. Besides, it's late...10:35 p.m. Down here in Unalakleet, it actually will get somewhat dark late. In Shishmaref, it's still quite light out at 2:00 a.m. That hasn't really bothered me too much....I've been so tired from all my unpacking and settling in that I fall asleep regardless.
I'll end by saying yet again that I am so fortunate to be experiencing what I am. The people have been so very nice and welcoming. Keep your dreams alive, folks. You just never know when and how things will work out for you. Oh, I was able to Skype with my daughter earlier tonight....I am really not that far away!
Good-night!
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