People up here have Eskimo names....obviously! They are often named after relatives and many names have meanings connected with the person being named. Many of the teachers are dubbed with Eskimo names and I now have my own which I think fits quite nicely....
Ahna Donna!
It means Grandma Donna!
What do you think? I'm the oldest staff member here in Shishmaref...at least that I know of....and admits to it!
For those of you back home in East Jordan, how does this sound?
"Oh, class?"
"Oh, what Ahna Donna?"
Yup, it works quite nicely!
Friday, October 5, 2012
Did I Mention....?
Now we're into October....and this is only my
second post since returning to Shishmaref for another school year.
Compared to last year, I am reporting only a smidgeon of what I am
experiencing so far. But, did I mention that I am now teaching third
grade in the "big school"? It has brought about BIG changes for
me in my workload. I find I don't have as much time to get out and enjoy
the village life. It's getting easier though....it truly is. I
don't think I'll be spending as many hours as I have been here in my
classroom....except....except that this is where I get my internet connection!
Six of one....half a dozen of another!
I am enjoying my school year with the third
graders. This is the age group I finished up with back in my hometown of
East Jordan, Michigan. Back home, I taught every grade level from
preschool through sixth grade throughout my 30+ years of teaching. I had
originally hoped for a second or third grade position when I headed to Alaska.
Last year, as most of you know, I taught in an Early Childhood Education
program with four year olds. It was fun and I really enjoyed meeting the
parents each and every day. But I missed the older kids, too, and I
wanted to experience being in the "big school" up close and personal.
When the third grade position opened up, I decided to go for it and here
I am.
We just finished up our sixth week of school.
In two weeks, the quarter will end and we have progress reports to mark.
The way we do reports up here is very different from "back
home" and there have been lots of changes in the whole Bering Straits
School District. We're all learning the "new and improved" way
of marking the reports. Thus, meetings, directives, changes,
confusion...you name it....are par for the course.
I could list all the "new" things I've
had to deal with....but, you get the point. I've been spending LOTS of
late nights here in my classroom. Many people have made comments to me
about the amount of time I spend in my classroom. What's sort of funny
about that is that I did the same thing last year but I was working out of a
completely different building behind the "big school" and most people
may not have even known I was doing that. This year, people driving or
walking by the school can see my classroom lights on through my window and are
now aware of how late I am staying. Regardless, it's hard to convince
people up here that what I am doing is what I have been doing for thirty years
or more....staying late in my classroom! My classroom is and always has
been my "comfort zone" where I find a great deal of peace. I
can't say I find "quiet" up here because the school is a focal point
in the community so there's a lot going on in the building after hours.
It's also where the teachers do laundry each night and on weekends.
There's a lot of activity up here. Sports practices have started
and soon it will be basketball season. This place REALLY starts hopping
then!
The weather has been wet and windy for the most
part. Today was quite a blustery day and there was flooding out by the
lagoon. I heard that a couple of boats sank. Last week or so, we
had three or four days of strong winds that just wouldn't quit. And yes,
we also had some snow. It lightly covered the ground but didn't last long.
A few nights ago, it was clear enough for a beautiful display of the
Northern Lights....which I didn't see....oh, well.
This year seems different to me in that I have to
remind myself where I am. "This isn't Kansas anymore, Toto!"
Yet, it doesn't feel a whole lot different this year than being back home
in Michigan. Oh, sure....there are BIG differences in many ways. I
just don't think you can beat Northern Lower Michigan's autumn colors. I
sure miss it. But, today, as I gazed out of my classroom window, the
color of the thick grass up here was so beautiful in its fall glory....a deep
golden amber. The sky and cloud cover up here are also quite vivid and
you really can't beat the view of the Chukchi Sea in all its fury!
But still....it's hard to put a finger on it in how
different it feels this year. I feel like I'm "home" and yet I
know better because I can't hop in my car and drive over to Indo-China Gardens
restaurant in the neighboring town for my favorite meal with one of my best
friends to just sit and laugh and tell good stories. Last year,
everything up here was so new and different. My camera was clicking a
zillion times a day. This year, it might stay in my backpack for several
days straight. It's not that what is happening up here is no longer
interesting. It definitely is and I'm learning new things about
Shishmaref all the time. I think it's just that I'm becoming accustomed
to the sounds and sights and, yes, the smells around me.
I think one of the things I am quite pleased about
is that I can actually spell many of the names up here now without too much
difficulty...and can actually say some of them, too....Nayokpuk, Eningowuk,
Eutuk, Kiyutelluk, Ningeulook, Weyiouanna, Kokeok, Sinnok....to name a few.
HOWEVER, don't ask me to say some of the words that Lisa has been
teaching my students in Bilingual because my mouth and voice box are simply not
designed to say some of the sounds that come from the Inupiaq language! I
am recognizing some of the words that I hear though....some!
One of the things Lisa shared this past week was a
tidbit about a favorite food....herring. Now, mind you....this isn't a
fish that's caught, gutted, dipped in batter and fried up on Friday nights and
served with cole slaw, fries and tartar sauce at an all-you-can-eat buffet!
Nope! These fish are caught and put in a gunnysack and left
to....ferment....guts and all. When they are "ready", folks can
easily peel back the outer layer and eat the fermented parts. In all due
respect, Lisa called them "stink herring" and I think I can
understand why. That may be one food I do pass up on trying.
Speaking of foods I've tried, not too long ago, the
Kokeoks had me over for Eskimo food....seal guts and all! I said that to
gross people out....ha! Seriously, I ate a small portion of seal blubber,
stomach and intestines. I also had dried fish and mukluk and boiled seal
meat. Maybe I can post a picture here....
Oh, well....maybe later. I can't remember how
to do that and I don't have "those directions" right here with me.
I carry around a little book of directions on how to access a million
things up here. I have to tell you, with the two school districts I've
worked in now....the Bering Straits has more codes and acronyms than you can
shake a stick at. Geez! Oh, and every village goes by a different
airport code, too, which gets REALLY confusing when the letters don't seem to
have ANYTHING to do at all with the village name. At least Shishmaref is
SHH....and Nome is OME. But Stebbins is WBB (I think).
Speaking of Stebbins....that's where we go for our
long weekend training sessions. We will be going again on October 24
(evening) through Oct. 27. We will do that again at the end of January
and we were there for a week in August. It's part of the School
Improvement Grant we are working under to improve our methods of teaching and
to raise our state test scores. Enough said!
Here's an interesting story that involves
Stebbins....it'll happen this Christmas. I have decided to go home for
the Christmas holidays. I shouldn't announce that on here because friends
read this blog and I will say RIGHT NOW.....I'M SORRY....BUT, NO....I WILL NOT
HAVE TIME TO VISIT EVERYONE IN THE VERY SHORT TIME I AM HOME!!!! Please
don't be offended....but I have an agenda for this trip and I cannot deviate
from it! Anyway, I had trouble booking my flights out of Shishmaref in
December. Keep in mind that many (most) teachers attempt to fly out of
the bush to points south for Christmas....and we come from many, many remote
spots. Each of those remote spots has to land in a hub and then you board
a jet from those hubs to get to Anchorage and destinations beyond in the Lower
48. Well, in booking my flights, I found that I could not get a
connecting flight from Nome to Anchorage (known as OME to ANC) on the night I
flew out of SHH....everything was booked solid....or so it seemed. I hit
one glitch after another. I finally reserved a room at the Aurora Inn in
Nome for the night and booked a "milk run" flight out of OME the next
day. Let me elaborate....
Staying in Nome for the night doesn't bother
me....there are plenty of good places to eat. It won't be Indo-China
Gardens...yet....but, let me tell you, there are some good sushi and tempura
spots in Nome! And, even though my friend, Warren, tells me that I give too
much information sometimes....I will finally be able to shave my legs while
staying at the hotel for the night....HA! The next day, I will board a
"milk run" flight, which will take me from OME to WBB (Stebbins) to
SMK (St. Michael) to UNK (Unalakleet) to ANC (Anchorage). From there, I
will finally board a jet, which will then take me to Seattle and eventually to
Detroit...arriving on the 21st in the evening....two days after leaving SHH.
It's costing me an arm and a leg....but at least the leg will be
clean-shaven! Plus, I will add more miles to my Alaska Air miles, which
will help when my son, Dan, comes up in May. It helped when my daughter
"followed" me in August.
Oh, hey! Dan!!!! He finished his
Appalachian Trail trek on September 17....2,180 miles. I am so proud of
him and I LOVED reading his trail journal. He posted lots of pictures,
too. I don't remember if I posted his link in my previous posts or not.
Just in case I didn't: http://trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=370456
Dan is now back home in East Jordan and
hard at work catching up with his clients and his "handyman" jobs.
Seriously, if you have time, check out his journal. His adventures
were nothing short of AMAZING! I can't wait until I have the chance to
sit down with him and hear about them in person. That's one of the
biggest frustrations I have up here this year....not being able to connect with
my kids very well. Now that I am in the "big school", my phone
reception is bad, bad, bad. I lose calls constantly so it's gotten to the
point that I just keep my phone off....it's so frustrating. Besides not
being able to talk to my kids much, I am also missing out on some Eskimo
birthday parties up here! Sorry, kids! I'm not ignoring you....just
not able to get phone calls easily!
Did you notice the "followed"
a couple paragraphs back? That's part of the lingo up here. For example,
if a parent said, "I'm going to the store!"...a child might ask,
"I follow you?" That means the child is asking if he can go
with the parent.
I'm happy to say that the Snack Shack
is up and running again for the year! Nothing more needs to be said here!
My class (20 students....the biggest
class in the school) will be pen pals with a third grade class back home in
East Jordan this coming year. Karen Jervey's class sent their letters up
here....which I have to tell you have not arrived yet and she sent them out
BEFORE we sent ours from up here and OURS have already made it to East Jordan.
Go figure! We look forward to sharing our cultures with each other.
I wish everyone back home could come visit Shishmaref. It's such a
different and interesting place to be.
Before I end this post....and walk home
to get something for supper instead of ordering from Snack Shack...again....I
want to tell you about something I learned up here. I have to laugh
because it really has nothing to do with being here! It is directly
related to a phenomenon that happens right over my house back in East Jordan at
this time of year....which I am missing. My student teacher, Stacey, told
me one day that she heard a new word...murmuration...which is what you
call a large flock of starlings swooping over an area. Every year in the
early autumn evenings, a murmuration occurs right over my house. I have
seen it several times and it fascinates me to no end to first listen for it
coming and then watch it happen right over my house (always wondering if it's a
good thing to be looking up...ha!). I was absolutely thrilled when I
realized that I now have a word for what I have witnessed for years. Just
think, I had to travel over 3,000 miles and live in a different culture to
learn that word....let alone all the new words I can't even begin to pronounce.
Tautugniaqmiġikpiñ / Qiñiġisilgitkikpiñ
(I think it's "goodbye" but don't quote me on that....I had to
look it up and I sure wouldn't be able to say it!)
Quyanna! (That one I do know....thank
you!)
Wednesday, September 12, 2012
Well, I'll Be Darned!
Wednesday, September 12...."It's Wednesday! It's Wednesday....the middle of the week! It's Wednesday! It's Wednesday....we're almost at the peak!" Ah, yes....from my days back in East Jordan. I sing that now with my Alaskan students!
Hmmm.....I am not sure what happened but I FINALLY had time to log onto my blog and saw the post from back in July. Hmmm....again! I KNOW I typed something up in August....because I wanted to be sure to get at least one post on here each month. But I don't see it. It must be floating out in cyberspace, I guess. Oh, well....
So, it's now September 12, 2012. I am currently sitting in my third grade classroom and it's 9:00 p.m. I cannot stay here long because.....well....here's my next adventure.....
Brown bears have meandered onto the island lately. In fact, just a few nights ago, a bear walked past my house and down Front Street which goes down past Nayokpuk General Store and towards the school. It happened around 1:30 in the morning. Darn! I was still awake at that point....it was a Friday night and I stayed up late working on trying to balance my Michigan checkbooks (God forbid!) and then reading before turning out my light. But I never saw anything....never suspected anything....until I heard the news the next day. I believe it's been the third brown bear on the island in as many weeks. It's not a safe situation. Men with their guns have been heading down to the channel leading to the mainland to watch for bears trying to cross. It appears that some may be chasing a momma with cubs. I have also heard that there may be a beached whale along the coastline that is drawing LOTS of bears....who are now deciding to wander off towards Shishmaref.
I refuse to become bear bait!!! Thus, I am trying to get home before dark as we are all being warned to do. It's really sort of scary. This morning, my housemate and I heard lots and lots of barking all around the village. That was it. We called another teacher who lives just across the road from us and begged a ride to school on her 4-wheeler. I wish we'd had a picture taken....a total of four grown women on one four-wheeler....looking out in all directions on the way to school!! We made it safely to school.
Since my previous August post apparently didn't get published, here's a quick (because I refuse to stay here at school much longer) rundown of what has happened since my return to Shishmaref....oh, gosh....I can hear a dog howling....it's ok....it's ok....I'm ok....it'll be ok....
On August 5, my daughter, Jessica, and I arrived in the village after spending a few delightful days in Anchorage and Nome. We were both so impressed with the beautiful landscape that we encountered south of Anchorage. Just gorgeous....absolutely stunning....whew!
It was raining when we got off the plane in Shishmaref. As I recall, it was raining last year, too, when I arrived for my first time. The folks in the village told me it's been a very rainy summer. As for the current weather....yes, it's getting cooler and the days are getting shorter. A couple days ago, I did see frost on the ground. I can't say "frost on the pumpkin" because there are no pumpkins or gardens up here....the growing season is way too short and the permafrost makes growing gardens difficult. Anyway, there's no snow on the island....yet. I did hear that there was snow up on Ear Mountain across the lagoon on the mainland. I don't think it stayed long. But....as you all know....this is Alaska and we're just south of the Arctic Circle....it won't be long. Last year there was snow for Halloween.
Jessica thoroughly enjoyed her visit to Shishmaref. I was glad she could be here to see where "Mom works and lives" a good portion of the year. One of the things she kept saying was, "These people...they are so beautiful!" It's true....the shapes of their faces, their deep brown eyes and dark hair....their bronze skin color. But then there are beautiful people all over the world. People are pretty cool!!!
I was so thankful that Jess was with me because when we arrived and entered my house....hmmmm. Let's just say the custodians had done what they could to clean up after the house repairs that took place this summer. I am not blaming them for the condition in which I found the house. Jess and I spent a few days washing walls, cupboards and dishes....getting the drywall dust off everything. I still opened a box just a couple days ago to find drywall pieces and plywood splinters in it. A bit discouraging! I suppose I should be grateful because we do have some updates in our house now. I am still hoping for a bedroom door though at some point!
Jess left on August 11....amidst the tears of "The Mom." That was tough. But I am so glad she was able to come. Next is my son's turn and he's hoping to come up in May.
Speaking of my son....Dan....he has walked over 2060 miles on the Appalachian Trail and has less than 120 miles to go. He has had quite the adventure himself and he does have an online trail journal that you can follow. But you'd better check it out soon because he is just about to the end. I so wish I could be there on the top of Mt. Katahdin in Maine to congratulate and hug him. What an accomplishment....especially when you consider his bout with Lyme's Disease, bears, aggressive snakes, and....his SVT (heart problems) which drew out the New Hampshire rescue squad. The link to his journal is: http://trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=370456
I have already had the opportunity to purchase some local crafts. But let it be known! This year I will not be able to buy as much as I did last year. This lady has some hefty bills to get whittled down from Michigan!
My school year began on August 13 when the staff flew to Stebbins for a week-long inservice. We slept on cots in classrooms and worked long days (7:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.). We got back to Shishmaref on Friday, August 17. Those of you who know me know that I then headed to my classroom where I worked until 1:00 a.m. many a night. There wasn't a bear scare yet!! Our first day with students was on August 27. I am teaching third grade this year and I'm really quite excited about that. That was my niche back in East Jordan even though I had taught every grade from preschool through sixth grade throughout my 30+ years.
I have 21 students in my class this year....oops....20! We have already lost one to Anchorage. I have an "intern" in my room this year....which back home is the same thing as a "student teacher." Stacey is WONDERFUL and I love having her in my classroom. She's a natural when it comes to teaching. She is originally from Shishmaref and is currently living with her parents. Her husband will be joining them soon from Shaktoolik. They have two beautiful little boys. I also have a great para-pro (classroom assistant) working with us (DeeAnn) and I would say we are all having a pretty good time so far. I will admit that I'm up to my eyebrows in work right now....just trying to get a grip on the new curriculum and grading procedures and such. But hey! I HAVE worked on a Smart Board for the very first time in my career. Every classroom has one!
Well, folks....I'm going to end for now....because it's getting darker outside and I really am serious about the bear business. It's nothing to fool around with. We are keeping our outside porch door unlocked for easy entry should we or anyone else have to make a quick get-away. It's common practice up here to leave the cunituck...qunituq (Arctic entryway)...however it's spelled...unlocked.
Hmmm.....I am not sure what happened but I FINALLY had time to log onto my blog and saw the post from back in July. Hmmm....again! I KNOW I typed something up in August....because I wanted to be sure to get at least one post on here each month. But I don't see it. It must be floating out in cyberspace, I guess. Oh, well....
So, it's now September 12, 2012. I am currently sitting in my third grade classroom and it's 9:00 p.m. I cannot stay here long because.....well....here's my next adventure.....
Brown bears have meandered onto the island lately. In fact, just a few nights ago, a bear walked past my house and down Front Street which goes down past Nayokpuk General Store and towards the school. It happened around 1:30 in the morning. Darn! I was still awake at that point....it was a Friday night and I stayed up late working on trying to balance my Michigan checkbooks (God forbid!) and then reading before turning out my light. But I never saw anything....never suspected anything....until I heard the news the next day. I believe it's been the third brown bear on the island in as many weeks. It's not a safe situation. Men with their guns have been heading down to the channel leading to the mainland to watch for bears trying to cross. It appears that some may be chasing a momma with cubs. I have also heard that there may be a beached whale along the coastline that is drawing LOTS of bears....who are now deciding to wander off towards Shishmaref.
I refuse to become bear bait!!! Thus, I am trying to get home before dark as we are all being warned to do. It's really sort of scary. This morning, my housemate and I heard lots and lots of barking all around the village. That was it. We called another teacher who lives just across the road from us and begged a ride to school on her 4-wheeler. I wish we'd had a picture taken....a total of four grown women on one four-wheeler....looking out in all directions on the way to school!! We made it safely to school.
Since my previous August post apparently didn't get published, here's a quick (because I refuse to stay here at school much longer) rundown of what has happened since my return to Shishmaref....oh, gosh....I can hear a dog howling....it's ok....it's ok....I'm ok....it'll be ok....
On August 5, my daughter, Jessica, and I arrived in the village after spending a few delightful days in Anchorage and Nome. We were both so impressed with the beautiful landscape that we encountered south of Anchorage. Just gorgeous....absolutely stunning....whew!
It was raining when we got off the plane in Shishmaref. As I recall, it was raining last year, too, when I arrived for my first time. The folks in the village told me it's been a very rainy summer. As for the current weather....yes, it's getting cooler and the days are getting shorter. A couple days ago, I did see frost on the ground. I can't say "frost on the pumpkin" because there are no pumpkins or gardens up here....the growing season is way too short and the permafrost makes growing gardens difficult. Anyway, there's no snow on the island....yet. I did hear that there was snow up on Ear Mountain across the lagoon on the mainland. I don't think it stayed long. But....as you all know....this is Alaska and we're just south of the Arctic Circle....it won't be long. Last year there was snow for Halloween.
Jessica thoroughly enjoyed her visit to Shishmaref. I was glad she could be here to see where "Mom works and lives" a good portion of the year. One of the things she kept saying was, "These people...they are so beautiful!" It's true....the shapes of their faces, their deep brown eyes and dark hair....their bronze skin color. But then there are beautiful people all over the world. People are pretty cool!!!
I was so thankful that Jess was with me because when we arrived and entered my house....hmmmm. Let's just say the custodians had done what they could to clean up after the house repairs that took place this summer. I am not blaming them for the condition in which I found the house. Jess and I spent a few days washing walls, cupboards and dishes....getting the drywall dust off everything. I still opened a box just a couple days ago to find drywall pieces and plywood splinters in it. A bit discouraging! I suppose I should be grateful because we do have some updates in our house now. I am still hoping for a bedroom door though at some point!
Jess left on August 11....amidst the tears of "The Mom." That was tough. But I am so glad she was able to come. Next is my son's turn and he's hoping to come up in May.
Speaking of my son....Dan....he has walked over 2060 miles on the Appalachian Trail and has less than 120 miles to go. He has had quite the adventure himself and he does have an online trail journal that you can follow. But you'd better check it out soon because he is just about to the end. I so wish I could be there on the top of Mt. Katahdin in Maine to congratulate and hug him. What an accomplishment....especially when you consider his bout with Lyme's Disease, bears, aggressive snakes, and....his SVT (heart problems) which drew out the New Hampshire rescue squad. The link to his journal is: http://trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=370456
I have already had the opportunity to purchase some local crafts. But let it be known! This year I will not be able to buy as much as I did last year. This lady has some hefty bills to get whittled down from Michigan!
My school year began on August 13 when the staff flew to Stebbins for a week-long inservice. We slept on cots in classrooms and worked long days (7:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.). We got back to Shishmaref on Friday, August 17. Those of you who know me know that I then headed to my classroom where I worked until 1:00 a.m. many a night. There wasn't a bear scare yet!! Our first day with students was on August 27. I am teaching third grade this year and I'm really quite excited about that. That was my niche back in East Jordan even though I had taught every grade from preschool through sixth grade throughout my 30+ years.
I have 21 students in my class this year....oops....20! We have already lost one to Anchorage. I have an "intern" in my room this year....which back home is the same thing as a "student teacher." Stacey is WONDERFUL and I love having her in my classroom. She's a natural when it comes to teaching. She is originally from Shishmaref and is currently living with her parents. Her husband will be joining them soon from Shaktoolik. They have two beautiful little boys. I also have a great para-pro (classroom assistant) working with us (DeeAnn) and I would say we are all having a pretty good time so far. I will admit that I'm up to my eyebrows in work right now....just trying to get a grip on the new curriculum and grading procedures and such. But hey! I HAVE worked on a Smart Board for the very first time in my career. Every classroom has one!
Well, folks....I'm going to end for now....because it's getting darker outside and I really am serious about the bear business. It's nothing to fool around with. We are keeping our outside porch door unlocked for easy entry should we or anyone else have to make a quick get-away. It's common practice up here to leave the cunituck...qunituq (Arctic entryway)...however it's spelled...unlocked.
Saturday, July 28, 2012
A Hard Day's Night!
It's Saturday, July 28. I am at my daughter's house in Tecumseh, MI...the last stop before we fly out on Monday, July 30 from Detroit to Anchorage. We'll spend a few days there sightseeing and bush shopping. Then we'll spend a couple days in Nome before flying into Shishmaref. Jessie will stay a few days to see where "Mom works and lives" during the school year.
The weeks/days leading up to this day have been insanely busy! I have had many visits with friends and family. Packing and shipping took up a ton of time and kept me up to the wee hours of the morning more often than I would have wanted. How things panned out today was typical of the last few weeks.
After staying up until 2:00 a.m. working on my "list of tasks", I crashed for the last night in my "beloved" bed. I was up before 8:00 a.m. to finish up my list. It quickly became apparent that I was not going to get everything done before my designated departure time of 11:00 a.m. I called my cousin, Pat, and asked him to make the dump run at some point....he said he would.
As I was feverishly trying to get my packing done, there was a knock on the front door. It turned out to be the pest control guy to take care of the paper wasp nest I mentioned on Facebook. He'll work on my house and send the bill to Alaska. Good deal....and back to work I went.
Time was dwindling so I gave up the idea of one final load of laundry. Thus, the sheets on my bed will have to wait until I return next spring and....I might have to carry a small plastic bag of dirty undies in my suitcase back to Alaska. I should put a "hazardous waste" sign on it because I know my luggage gets searched in security!
Speaking of airport security, I have a funny story to relate. Last year on my way up during one of the security checks, the guard said, "Are you married or are you happy?" Cracked me right up!
The clock was ticking away and I still had way too much to do. At that point, I literally scooped up things off the counter tops and dining room table and stuffed them into boxes. I did the same thing with my suitcase and clothes. It had been my plan to sort through things in an orderly fashion before I left. Oh, well...I piled them into the car and took them with me to my daughter's where I will try to do some sorting and shipping before we leave.
At this point, it was about an hour after my original 11:00 deadline and I absolutely had to leave....I had a long trip ahead of me downstate. Before leaving the house, I sprawled out on the top of my bed one last time! I would loved to have taken a nap right about then. I slowly walked through the house making my peace with leaving and catching one last glimpse of the Olympics. I will miss most of it this year....bummer! Off to the post office one last time and then to my cousin's to drop off my keys.
I headed towards Boyne City because I had told my BFF, Diane, that I wanted her to be the last person I hugged before I left East Jordan this year. I called her up to tell her I was on my way. I'll tell you right now that it was a mistake to have done that. We had had dinner together a couple nights ago at one of my favorite Chinese restaurants and we should have just said our farewells then. It would have been easier. As it was, Diane and I hugged and cried like little babies!!!
As I was driving away, my stomach reminded me that it was after noon and I had yet to eat anything. I decided to go to the local McDonald's. Have you ever had that "nagging feeling" that you have forgotten something? Thank goodness I had that nagging feeling. After getting my order at the drive-thru, I parked and started pawing through the two boxes of scooped up items from my counter tops. What I was looking for was nowhere to be found. So.....
I drove the nine miles back to East Jordan and retrieved my house keys from my cousin. I then went back to the house and started searching for that forgotten item.....and couldn't find it right away. Now I started to panic because....the forgotten item was a bank envelope holding a tidy sum of bills. I backtracked my steps from last night to the moment I left and finally found where I had hid it....so no one would find it....including me!
Once again I said good-bye to my house....remembering that last year when I left I had to say good-bye to my beloved cat (much more important than my bed). I knew when I left last year that it would be the last time I saw my 19 year old cat because he was on his last leg at that point. As I have written before, my kids had to take the cat to the vet last November to be put to sleep. We Skyped the night before so I could see Dusty one last time. Sad memories....but life goes on.
Consequently, after a delay of two days and a couple hours (I had originally planned to leave for downstate on Thursday), I was on the road. I decided to take a different route to my daughter's which would take me near my sister's house down in Coopersville....oh, ok....so it was a little bit out of my way. But, do you ever get that "nagging feeling".....? I called my daughter and told her of my plans to say good-bye to my sister....something kept telling me I needed to do it. Our visit and farewell was ever so brief and I was back on the road again. It was a good thing that Jess and Chris decided we'd eat at their house tonight instead of going into Ann Arbor as originally planned. I was way behind schedule and had many miles to go yet.
Yeah, right....! I took the wrong road out of Lansing (capital of Michigan) and realized my mistake a few miles down the road. I pulled over, checked the map and rerouted my trip. It took me into Jackson (home of the State prison....and the Cascades which I got to see on a Girl Scout trip many, many years ago) where I really got turned around because of some crazy detours throughout the city. Grrrr! I wanted to call my daughter but I was using my Michigan cell phone (as opposed to my Alaskan cell phone that I know how to easily bring up everyone's phone numbers) and couldn't remember her phone number. I wasn't about to stop and dig through the boxes of counter top scoopings. So I kept on driving....and arrived in Tecumseh....only about five hours later than I had originally planned...to a most delightful dinner of homemade vegetarian pizzas....four different kinds. Chris can definitely put together a meal to enjoy.
So, I am now zipping out this blog posting to commemorate the beginning of my second year of teaching and living in Shishmaref, Alaska. Leaving East Jordan after a two-month hiatus was a little more difficult this year compared to last. I think that last year I was so enthralled with the idea of finally reaching my decades-old dream of teaching in Alaska that leaving was just a necessary part of starting my adventure. Now that I have a year in and I know a lot of what to expect, my mind was wrapped around other things....like how much I like my own bed....and how much I will miss my friends and family. Don't get me wrong....I am equally excited to be going back to Shishmaref for another school year and I genuinely miss the folks up there. I understand work has been done this past month in the house I live in. It'll be interesting to see what changes were made and I'm excited to have my daughter with me for a couple weeks in Alaska. My son (currently out on the Appalachian Trail with over 1500 miles walked so far...about 600 to go) will probably come visit next spring.
There you have it....the beginning of the next chapter of "My Next Thirty Years!" I am so very tired right now....it's been a hard day....and it's now time to go to bed.....while I can still enjoy the fact that it's dark outside right now. In another week or so, I will have to deal with it being light late into the night. But that's ok....it's part of the Alaskan adventure!
Good night! Oh, one more thing.....who's winning what in the Olympics?
The weeks/days leading up to this day have been insanely busy! I have had many visits with friends and family. Packing and shipping took up a ton of time and kept me up to the wee hours of the morning more often than I would have wanted. How things panned out today was typical of the last few weeks.
After staying up until 2:00 a.m. working on my "list of tasks", I crashed for the last night in my "beloved" bed. I was up before 8:00 a.m. to finish up my list. It quickly became apparent that I was not going to get everything done before my designated departure time of 11:00 a.m. I called my cousin, Pat, and asked him to make the dump run at some point....he said he would.
As I was feverishly trying to get my packing done, there was a knock on the front door. It turned out to be the pest control guy to take care of the paper wasp nest I mentioned on Facebook. He'll work on my house and send the bill to Alaska. Good deal....and back to work I went.
Time was dwindling so I gave up the idea of one final load of laundry. Thus, the sheets on my bed will have to wait until I return next spring and....I might have to carry a small plastic bag of dirty undies in my suitcase back to Alaska. I should put a "hazardous waste" sign on it because I know my luggage gets searched in security!
Speaking of airport security, I have a funny story to relate. Last year on my way up during one of the security checks, the guard said, "Are you married or are you happy?" Cracked me right up!
The clock was ticking away and I still had way too much to do. At that point, I literally scooped up things off the counter tops and dining room table and stuffed them into boxes. I did the same thing with my suitcase and clothes. It had been my plan to sort through things in an orderly fashion before I left. Oh, well...I piled them into the car and took them with me to my daughter's where I will try to do some sorting and shipping before we leave.
At this point, it was about an hour after my original 11:00 deadline and I absolutely had to leave....I had a long trip ahead of me downstate. Before leaving the house, I sprawled out on the top of my bed one last time! I would loved to have taken a nap right about then. I slowly walked through the house making my peace with leaving and catching one last glimpse of the Olympics. I will miss most of it this year....bummer! Off to the post office one last time and then to my cousin's to drop off my keys.
I headed towards Boyne City because I had told my BFF, Diane, that I wanted her to be the last person I hugged before I left East Jordan this year. I called her up to tell her I was on my way. I'll tell you right now that it was a mistake to have done that. We had had dinner together a couple nights ago at one of my favorite Chinese restaurants and we should have just said our farewells then. It would have been easier. As it was, Diane and I hugged and cried like little babies!!!
As I was driving away, my stomach reminded me that it was after noon and I had yet to eat anything. I decided to go to the local McDonald's. Have you ever had that "nagging feeling" that you have forgotten something? Thank goodness I had that nagging feeling. After getting my order at the drive-thru, I parked and started pawing through the two boxes of scooped up items from my counter tops. What I was looking for was nowhere to be found. So.....
I drove the nine miles back to East Jordan and retrieved my house keys from my cousin. I then went back to the house and started searching for that forgotten item.....and couldn't find it right away. Now I started to panic because....the forgotten item was a bank envelope holding a tidy sum of bills. I backtracked my steps from last night to the moment I left and finally found where I had hid it....so no one would find it....including me!
Once again I said good-bye to my house....remembering that last year when I left I had to say good-bye to my beloved cat (much more important than my bed). I knew when I left last year that it would be the last time I saw my 19 year old cat because he was on his last leg at that point. As I have written before, my kids had to take the cat to the vet last November to be put to sleep. We Skyped the night before so I could see Dusty one last time. Sad memories....but life goes on.
Consequently, after a delay of two days and a couple hours (I had originally planned to leave for downstate on Thursday), I was on the road. I decided to take a different route to my daughter's which would take me near my sister's house down in Coopersville....oh, ok....so it was a little bit out of my way. But, do you ever get that "nagging feeling".....? I called my daughter and told her of my plans to say good-bye to my sister....something kept telling me I needed to do it. Our visit and farewell was ever so brief and I was back on the road again. It was a good thing that Jess and Chris decided we'd eat at their house tonight instead of going into Ann Arbor as originally planned. I was way behind schedule and had many miles to go yet.
Yeah, right....! I took the wrong road out of Lansing (capital of Michigan) and realized my mistake a few miles down the road. I pulled over, checked the map and rerouted my trip. It took me into Jackson (home of the State prison....and the Cascades which I got to see on a Girl Scout trip many, many years ago) where I really got turned around because of some crazy detours throughout the city. Grrrr! I wanted to call my daughter but I was using my Michigan cell phone (as opposed to my Alaskan cell phone that I know how to easily bring up everyone's phone numbers) and couldn't remember her phone number. I wasn't about to stop and dig through the boxes of counter top scoopings. So I kept on driving....and arrived in Tecumseh....only about five hours later than I had originally planned...to a most delightful dinner of homemade vegetarian pizzas....four different kinds. Chris can definitely put together a meal to enjoy.
So, I am now zipping out this blog posting to commemorate the beginning of my second year of teaching and living in Shishmaref, Alaska. Leaving East Jordan after a two-month hiatus was a little more difficult this year compared to last. I think that last year I was so enthralled with the idea of finally reaching my decades-old dream of teaching in Alaska that leaving was just a necessary part of starting my adventure. Now that I have a year in and I know a lot of what to expect, my mind was wrapped around other things....like how much I like my own bed....and how much I will miss my friends and family. Don't get me wrong....I am equally excited to be going back to Shishmaref for another school year and I genuinely miss the folks up there. I understand work has been done this past month in the house I live in. It'll be interesting to see what changes were made and I'm excited to have my daughter with me for a couple weeks in Alaska. My son (currently out on the Appalachian Trail with over 1500 miles walked so far...about 600 to go) will probably come visit next spring.
There you have it....the beginning of the next chapter of "My Next Thirty Years!" I am so very tired right now....it's been a hard day....and it's now time to go to bed.....while I can still enjoy the fact that it's dark outside right now. In another week or so, I will have to deal with it being light late into the night. But that's ok....it's part of the Alaskan adventure!
Good night! Oh, one more thing.....who's winning what in the Olympics?
Saturday, May 19, 2012
Looking Out My Window!
It's Saturday, May 19....last working day for the 2011-12 school year. So many thoughts swirling through my head.
I am sitting here quietly in the ECE building....my last time to do this.....looking out the back windows. I see the two dogs curled up on bare ground now....where there had been piles of snow just even last week. I've enjoyed watching those dogs....one is more playful than the other.
Also right outside my window are several snow machines in various states of repair. It's my understanding that the folks living in that house also take "outsiders" on hunting excursions during the year so the machines serve as means of transportation. There must have been some hunting going on recently because I can see a bear hide sprawled out on a blue tarp. Yesterday in the warmer afternoon, flies were swarming over the hide. I can see the skull on top on the shed.
I've watched many birds throughout the year. Seagulls, ducks, geese, and cranes are now returning after spending winter somewhere else. I've posted a picture of a snow bunting on my Facebook page. You might also want to check out "Birds of Shishmaref" on Facebook....posted by Ken Stenek.
Probably the thing I will miss the most from this view of Shishmaref is watching the airplanes come and go daily (unless there's a snowy white-out or fog). It was my "connection to the outside world" in a way. Of course, when an incoming plane would fly over, I laughingly would call out, "Da plane, boss....da plane!" I'm not sure who amongst this young group of people I work with actually knew why I was saying that! Then when the planes would fly off, I'd reach out my hand and pleadingly say, "You forgot me....come back, come back!" I was always only joking. I'm happy here!
Looking out at that airport brings up other memories....the most recent being the loss of our District pilot, Doug. I had never had the opportunity to meet him but I sure heard the stories. He was a quiet man but an incredibly skilled pilot from what I understand. If you flew with him, you were in safe hands. He could get you through anything. He flew District staff, village teachers and students all around to various meetings and school events. It is my understanding that he flew for 45 years in western Alaska and logged in over 47,000 miles. It has been said many times that if the weather was iffy and someone was coming or going, people would ask, "Who's flying today?" If the answer was ERA...you weren't going anywhere. If the answer was Bering Air, it was possible but don't count on it. If it was Doug flying the District plane, it was, "Oh, ok, you'll get where you have to go." Doug passed away suddenly on Monday, May 14 here in Shishmaref. He had just flown in five folks out of the Unalakleet (District Office) to attend our graduation ceremony. He was walking out to the airport to check on the plane as the group would be turning around and going back home that very evening after the program was done. He didn't even make it to the airport. He dropped, face first, into the snow and was gone from a massive heart attack. Needless to say, everyone was shocked. He was supposedly in good health and was to have retired this coming week with lots of plans for an enjoyable future of sailing, working on his antique motorcycles, and spending time with his wife. Sad to have lost such a good person but also thankful that this didn't happen while he was in the air. One of the folks that he brought in said something that brought tears to my eyes, "I'm honored to have been on his last Earthly flight and am positive he was in good hands on his final flight home." I trust that he was.
I also remember looking out this window many times at the rolling waves coming in from the Chukchi Sea and listening to Wilsa describe what it has been like to have the island erode into the water....losing land and buildings. Back in November, we were all preparing for what was being described as a hurricane-force storm and I watched the sea gained strength as if to say, "I'm coming to get you this time." The storm, fortunately, did not arrive with as much vengeance as was predicted. Nome got it worse. But we did lose more frontage off the seaside of the island.
I also watched on several occasions when the fog rolled in blanketing the airport and buildings. Flights were delayed or canceled altogether. It looks fairly clear right now but that can quickly change. I know there are several teachers planning to fly out today starting the mass exodus for the summer. They are anxiously watching the weather!
I remember being in this spot when one evening I could hear from the airport a very loud and different noise. I happened to be on Facebook at the time and the word quickly went out....upon landing of the District plane, a wheel collapsed and the plane did some swirlies on the runway with the girls' basketball team on board. Everyone was fine...although the plane did sustain some damage. There was a boys' basketball team from Gambell waiting out at the runway to leave on that plane. Needless to say, they didn't leave that night.
Looking out at that runway reminds me of the day I flew in on August 3, 2011. I was on a plane with Esther, Annie and Luke. They were the folks left at the Nome terminal when my new friends, other teachers from the BSSD, left on their flights into another village. I remember being a bit nervous because this was my "first time" of a lot of "firsts" connected with this new adventure. I hoped I was doing everything I was supposed to be doing according to everything I had researched online and with communications with people here in Shishmaref via email. As I sat there, one of the ladies asked me if I was going to Shishmaref. When I said yes, she said I must be one of the new teachers. I think being Caucasian up here and maybe looking a bit out of place and nervous might be clues to
the locals!! When I said, "Yes, I am. My name is Donna Bennett and I'll be teaching in the ECE classroom." She smiled and said, "Donna, I'm Esther!" The biggest smile came across my face and I jumped up and hugged her. You see, Esther and I had made a random connection on Facebook while I was back in Michigan. It was good to meet up with someone who could "lead me into the village." But what happened next was really fun, too.
There was a little boy resting on the chairs....with a cast on his leg. His mother was across the room and overheard the conversation between Esther and me. She spoke up and introduced herself (Annie) and pointed out that her son, Luke, had recently broken his leg. He would be one of my four year old students in the ECE class this coming year. He wouldn't say a word to me!!! However, when class was over for the year this past week,
it was Luke who came up to give me a hug!
Anyway, as we were approaching Shishmaref (folks up here refer to the villages by their airport code so I might use SHH), Esther tapped me on the shoulder and pointed out the window to the village appearing now down below. You can't really talk on the little bush planes....it's just too loud. But as I looked out the window, my excitement mounted. I was about to begin my adventure....one that took root back in 1993 with a trip to China with People to People Citizen Ambassadors. Such a long time ago....and here I was.
The plane landed and we disembarked....into a rainy day. Oh, happy me! I much prefer a rainy, cloudy day and that's what greeted me here in SHH. Also greeting me was John Bruce, the assistant principal. He gathered up
my suitcases and my wheeled cooler of perishables purchased in Nome, put them in the back of the beat-up green pick-up and drove me into the village. Before leaving, I met Don who told me he was Helen's husband (she teaches High School special ed). They would later take me under their "southern hospitality wings" and I'd eat many a dinner with them and their family.
As John drove me into the village, my eyes were wide opened to all I was seeing....kids playing outside at what I would later find out to be the "new playground" and basketball court...."black things" hanging from poles around the village (found out later that it was seal meat or fish being dried to later eat with seal oil), antlers of caribou and moose perched on top of roofs, tall deep green grasses clinging to huge mounds of dirt and deep
ruts in barely passable "roadways", houses that looked to be the same shape but different faded colors...and mud, mud, mud....which would dry out to be sand, sand, sand....EVERYWHERE...in EVERYTHING! I would find
that it would drift just like snow does....and later, of course, came the snow....and it came...and it came...and it came!
I am sitting alone in this very quiet room...hearing the ticking of a battery-operated clock. I love that sound. It reminds me of so many things....my Grandmother Peterson's house....the night my son was rushed to the ER in Petoskey and as I quietly rested my head on the railing of his bed, I could hear the clock ticking....my livingroom back at home where I would rock in my chair to the rhythm of the clock and I even now think of my cat, Dusty, who had to be put down back in November. He'd be curled up somewhere in the livingroom. Let me tell a little bit about
that story.
When I left East Jordan back in July of last year, my sister, Shirley, was driving me downstate where I would meet up with my daughter, Jessica, and they would eventually take me to the airport in Detroit. Hey, you know what? Now that I think back, we traveled to Detroit in the rain, too. Left Michigan in the rain and arrived in Shishmaref in the rain. Anyway, I told Shirley to go to the car and let me have a few minutes alone in the house. I scooped up my cat and hugged and petted him...and cried. I knew it was the last time I'd touch him and be able to smell his fur and talk to him. He wasn't well and I knew he'd never make it until I returned. Gosh, I have had so many pets and have had to watch them go. Dusty was 19 years old. My kids Skyped with me the night before he died....so I could see him one last time. Skype has been a godsend for me up here...over 3000 miles away from my family.
Oh, here's a funny one....! Just before I left Michigan to begin my school year up here, I received a jury duty notice in the mail....you know....the questionnaire you have to fill out and return under penalty of law and all that? Well, I filled it out with glee....and pointed out that I was moving to Alaska and I doubted they would want to call me for jury duty. I filled out the mileage part where they ask how many miles is it from your home to the courthouse....and I put something like 3,100 miles. I was never called for jury duty!
Back to the ECE building....we don't know if it will be here or not next year or if there will be a new building. It's an old building...1975....and it was built on marshy ground. I don't see how that could be avoided here on the island! Oh, I just heard last night that even the "big school" that is up on stilts settled some and the front doors were left ajar. Anyway, our building has a history of being many things...a bed and breakfast, a restaurant, part of the "big" school, the ECE building. Earlier this year, we noticed a crack in the ceiling and as the year rolled on, the crack widened and additional cracks began to appear in the walls and along the support beams. We finally shut down our program at the end of March and began looking for a place to hold class to finish out the year. We moved to the church basement thanks to the gracious approval of the church board and Pastor Mark. Our schedule had to change....three year olds going in the morning and four year olds going in the afternoon....but it worked. We didn't have running water out there...nor flushing toilets....but since most kids live with that anyway in their homes, it wasn't that big of a deal during school.
I suppose the other "big" story would be the "break-in" while I was here in the building. I had a guy jimmy his way into the building! The door was locked but he got in. He was surprised to see me and apologized several times if he scared me. He said he was just wanting to see what was happening to the building because he'd heard about it. Silly me....I didn't think much of it at the time. At first, I thought that it was one of my co-workers trying to get it and wiggling their key. Our door has been goofy...like a lot of things up here! But when I got to the entryway, it was this guy already coming in.
So...like I said, silly me. He started saying right away that he wanted to see the condition of the building so I showed him through the classrooms and chit-chatted. As we were walking back to the entryway, he pointed to one of the rooms and said he had had school in there (the building has been used for lots of things) and then he spied the vacuum and said he'd used that vacuum to clean in there before. Again, I'm still not thinking much about it because I've heard so many stories about the different people who have passed through that building at one time or
another. As he got to the door, he again apologized if he scared me and said he knew I was in the building because he saw my tracks leading in. Then he said he has seen several kids standing out by the door before and
that the door wasn't locked very securely. Then he left.
Now, I sat and pondered the "event" and thought it was strange that he jimmied the door knob until he got in.....even though he "saw my tracks and knew I was in there"....why didn't he knock? The more I thought about
it, the weirder it became. I was on Facebook and saw one of the custodians at the big school on there and mentioned it to him. He thought I should call the VPSO (cop) and tell him about it....and I did. I was finally able to reach staff from our building and they all showed up. We messed around with the door some more and realized that it doesn't take much at all to open it even when we think it's locked. This guy had probably been in the building before. The thing is....we don't think anything has been taken. It really could just be someone looking for some food. It's hard to say.
What's crazy about it is that I just chit-chatted with the guy and although it seemed a little strange that he jimmied the door to get in initially....I didn't "get it" until thinking about it more once I was alone. This guy was so self-assured when he walked in and seemed to know what he was talking about with the condition of the building and with saying he'd been a student there and such. Truth of the matter, he broke in....with me in there!! Thank goodness....nothing happened.
By the way, when I say things are "goofy" up here....I say that kindly. Let's just say things are "different." But it's important to point out that being "funny" doesn't mean being hilarious or silly. Nope...it means being "mean" to someone. I learned that early in the year when a child came to me to say that so-and-so was being "funny." I started laughing and saying, "Well, what is so-and-so doing to be funny?" That's when I found out that "funny" is actually "being mean" and now here I was laughing at the child trying to tell me the situation. Oh, well....sorry!
Oh, ERA just flew out on their morning flight. I didn't even hear them arrive this time...just saw them leave. The next flight out will carry several of our teachers. Others are going throughout the coming days. I leave on Tuesday, May 22. Another teacher will leave on June 18...she has reason to stay longer in the village!!! She has a "honey" here! Then the three new teachers will begin arriving. Our new assistant principal's parents and a couple of her siblings live here in SHH. She's married with children. Another one comes with a husband and son. The other two new teachers...I don't know a whole lot about them except that one is bringing up 100 lbs. of fish with him from his summer job as a fishing boat captain! One will be taking over this position in the ECE building. I wonder what she will observe out this back window in the months ahead. New adventures for new folks.
So many stories, so many thoughts and feelings. What a strange and exciting year this has been. I am looking forward to going back down to the Lower 48 for awhile. Some people up here will say I'm going "back to the United States" and I think they mean it! Shishmaref is so far removed from the continental United States and what that conjures up. But there are folks who proudly and fiercely hold onto what it means to be an Inupiat Eskimo and it is NOT the same as being a Caucasian in a town or city in the Lower 48. That is neither good nor bad....it just IS.
Consequently, I have strong feelings about what is expected up here in the school system when we are dealing with such a different culture and environment and such...and yet we have to "grade" these children against the expectations of the Lower 48....not fair, I tell you!
Nevertheless, countdown to "liftoff" has begun and I will leave on May 22. I will arrive in Milwaukee, Wisconsin on May 23 (it does take awhile to get flights and connections back to the continental US...we really are way out here). Oh, wait....that reminds me of something else I have found a bit humorous up here. People will often say, "Oh, I would love to come to Alaska. It's such a beautiful state. Can I come visit you?" Well, yes and no! Alaska IS a beautiful state...and vast. I was in awe of what I saw last July when I flew up to spend a few days in Anchorage. I look forward to being able to spend a few more days again touring the Anchorage and Kenai areas....and in the future, other spectacular locations throughout the State. BUT....where I live is NOT easily accessible. Anyone living in the "Bush" knows that it's not like anywhere else! You have to fly out of Anchorage to a "hub" which is where you will catch your smaller "bush" plane into your village. Speaking of which, on my last flight out of Nome, our pilot was one of the guys featured on "Flying Wild Alaska"! Anyway, the flight out is not cheap, folks. Well, just figure that a gallon of regular gasoline here in the village is over $7.00 so take it from there. Anyway, once you reach the hub, you then board your flight to your village. Once you reach your destination, it's not like you hail a taxi into the center of the village and find a motel or a restaurant. True, we do have Snack Shack up here but that's not always opened either. There are no motels...there are no taxis. You have to have made your plans to be picked up before you get here or in any other rural Alaskan village. You MUST have pick-up plans because the smaller villages do NOT have a terminal to go inside to get out of the frigid cold. Our staff was once dropped off at a airstrip to await our plane taking us back to SHH after an in-service. The vehicles dropping us off had to leave to drive the seven miles back to the school to pick up some other folks for a different plane. The problem is....our plane never arrived and after 45 minutes or so in -40 degree weather....it wasn't pleasant.
So, the answer is more like, "No, you probably won't come to visit unless you have saved up some money for the high plane fares AND you know someone up here to be able to stay with and will pick you up out at the airstrip."
On the other hand, IF you come up to visit, you are in for a wonderful experience. I do miss the trees up here in the tundra...the smell of pine and freshly-cut grass and the sound of a thunderstorm....but, I have seen some of the most incredible sunsets and Northern Lights and tundra ground cover and vast snowy views...and different animals and birds....and the people. I love just looking at the people. Their faces hold so many stories of what their ancestors have endured and learned and passed on. And their hands....so strong....and to know they have used them for gathering berries and eggs...for fishing and hunting....and for carving and sewing some of the most beautiful pieces of artwork I have ever seen.
Goodness, I can't forget the dogs....everywhere...curled up in the snow and wanting it no other way! I have been immensely thrilled at watching the dog mushing that goes on up here....from what I saw right here in the village and the stories I've heard from Bessie (raising and racing her own dogs) and Elizabeth (wife of the legendary Herbie Nayokpuk...the "Shishmaref Cannonball") to actually seeing and being right amongst the Iditarod mushers and dog teams this past year in Unalakleet. I couldn't have asked for a memorable experience.
Stay tuned....I'll be adding more once I get back to Michigan....or maybe I'll add some "tourist shots" of my long-awaited trip to Mt. Rushmore and the Badlands. Whew....talk about going from one temperature extreme to
another!
By the way, I WILL be returning to Shishmaref in August to teach another year. I will be in third grade next fall and in the "big" school. I'm sure I'll have lots more to share then.
Take care...I'll be back...soon....because I have some interesting pictures to share of springtime in Shishmaref!
I am sitting here quietly in the ECE building....my last time to do this.....looking out the back windows. I see the two dogs curled up on bare ground now....where there had been piles of snow just even last week. I've enjoyed watching those dogs....one is more playful than the other.
Also right outside my window are several snow machines in various states of repair. It's my understanding that the folks living in that house also take "outsiders" on hunting excursions during the year so the machines serve as means of transportation. There must have been some hunting going on recently because I can see a bear hide sprawled out on a blue tarp. Yesterday in the warmer afternoon, flies were swarming over the hide. I can see the skull on top on the shed.
I've watched many birds throughout the year. Seagulls, ducks, geese, and cranes are now returning after spending winter somewhere else. I've posted a picture of a snow bunting on my Facebook page. You might also want to check out "Birds of Shishmaref" on Facebook....posted by Ken Stenek.
Probably the thing I will miss the most from this view of Shishmaref is watching the airplanes come and go daily (unless there's a snowy white-out or fog). It was my "connection to the outside world" in a way. Of course, when an incoming plane would fly over, I laughingly would call out, "Da plane, boss....da plane!" I'm not sure who amongst this young group of people I work with actually knew why I was saying that! Then when the planes would fly off, I'd reach out my hand and pleadingly say, "You forgot me....come back, come back!" I was always only joking. I'm happy here!
Looking out at that airport brings up other memories....the most recent being the loss of our District pilot, Doug. I had never had the opportunity to meet him but I sure heard the stories. He was a quiet man but an incredibly skilled pilot from what I understand. If you flew with him, you were in safe hands. He could get you through anything. He flew District staff, village teachers and students all around to various meetings and school events. It is my understanding that he flew for 45 years in western Alaska and logged in over 47,000 miles. It has been said many times that if the weather was iffy and someone was coming or going, people would ask, "Who's flying today?" If the answer was ERA...you weren't going anywhere. If the answer was Bering Air, it was possible but don't count on it. If it was Doug flying the District plane, it was, "Oh, ok, you'll get where you have to go." Doug passed away suddenly on Monday, May 14 here in Shishmaref. He had just flown in five folks out of the Unalakleet (District Office) to attend our graduation ceremony. He was walking out to the airport to check on the plane as the group would be turning around and going back home that very evening after the program was done. He didn't even make it to the airport. He dropped, face first, into the snow and was gone from a massive heart attack. Needless to say, everyone was shocked. He was supposedly in good health and was to have retired this coming week with lots of plans for an enjoyable future of sailing, working on his antique motorcycles, and spending time with his wife. Sad to have lost such a good person but also thankful that this didn't happen while he was in the air. One of the folks that he brought in said something that brought tears to my eyes, "I'm honored to have been on his last Earthly flight and am positive he was in good hands on his final flight home." I trust that he was.
I also remember looking out this window many times at the rolling waves coming in from the Chukchi Sea and listening to Wilsa describe what it has been like to have the island erode into the water....losing land and buildings. Back in November, we were all preparing for what was being described as a hurricane-force storm and I watched the sea gained strength as if to say, "I'm coming to get you this time." The storm, fortunately, did not arrive with as much vengeance as was predicted. Nome got it worse. But we did lose more frontage off the seaside of the island.
I also watched on several occasions when the fog rolled in blanketing the airport and buildings. Flights were delayed or canceled altogether. It looks fairly clear right now but that can quickly change. I know there are several teachers planning to fly out today starting the mass exodus for the summer. They are anxiously watching the weather!
I remember being in this spot when one evening I could hear from the airport a very loud and different noise. I happened to be on Facebook at the time and the word quickly went out....upon landing of the District plane, a wheel collapsed and the plane did some swirlies on the runway with the girls' basketball team on board. Everyone was fine...although the plane did sustain some damage. There was a boys' basketball team from Gambell waiting out at the runway to leave on that plane. Needless to say, they didn't leave that night.
Looking out at that runway reminds me of the day I flew in on August 3, 2011. I was on a plane with Esther, Annie and Luke. They were the folks left at the Nome terminal when my new friends, other teachers from the BSSD, left on their flights into another village. I remember being a bit nervous because this was my "first time" of a lot of "firsts" connected with this new adventure. I hoped I was doing everything I was supposed to be doing according to everything I had researched online and with communications with people here in Shishmaref via email. As I sat there, one of the ladies asked me if I was going to Shishmaref. When I said yes, she said I must be one of the new teachers. I think being Caucasian up here and maybe looking a bit out of place and nervous might be clues to
the locals!! When I said, "Yes, I am. My name is Donna Bennett and I'll be teaching in the ECE classroom." She smiled and said, "Donna, I'm Esther!" The biggest smile came across my face and I jumped up and hugged her. You see, Esther and I had made a random connection on Facebook while I was back in Michigan. It was good to meet up with someone who could "lead me into the village." But what happened next was really fun, too.
There was a little boy resting on the chairs....with a cast on his leg. His mother was across the room and overheard the conversation between Esther and me. She spoke up and introduced herself (Annie) and pointed out that her son, Luke, had recently broken his leg. He would be one of my four year old students in the ECE class this coming year. He wouldn't say a word to me!!! However, when class was over for the year this past week,
it was Luke who came up to give me a hug!
Anyway, as we were approaching Shishmaref (folks up here refer to the villages by their airport code so I might use SHH), Esther tapped me on the shoulder and pointed out the window to the village appearing now down below. You can't really talk on the little bush planes....it's just too loud. But as I looked out the window, my excitement mounted. I was about to begin my adventure....one that took root back in 1993 with a trip to China with People to People Citizen Ambassadors. Such a long time ago....and here I was.
The plane landed and we disembarked....into a rainy day. Oh, happy me! I much prefer a rainy, cloudy day and that's what greeted me here in SHH. Also greeting me was John Bruce, the assistant principal. He gathered up
my suitcases and my wheeled cooler of perishables purchased in Nome, put them in the back of the beat-up green pick-up and drove me into the village. Before leaving, I met Don who told me he was Helen's husband (she teaches High School special ed). They would later take me under their "southern hospitality wings" and I'd eat many a dinner with them and their family.
As John drove me into the village, my eyes were wide opened to all I was seeing....kids playing outside at what I would later find out to be the "new playground" and basketball court...."black things" hanging from poles around the village (found out later that it was seal meat or fish being dried to later eat with seal oil), antlers of caribou and moose perched on top of roofs, tall deep green grasses clinging to huge mounds of dirt and deep
ruts in barely passable "roadways", houses that looked to be the same shape but different faded colors...and mud, mud, mud....which would dry out to be sand, sand, sand....EVERYWHERE...in EVERYTHING! I would find
that it would drift just like snow does....and later, of course, came the snow....and it came...and it came...and it came!
I am sitting alone in this very quiet room...hearing the ticking of a battery-operated clock. I love that sound. It reminds me of so many things....my Grandmother Peterson's house....the night my son was rushed to the ER in Petoskey and as I quietly rested my head on the railing of his bed, I could hear the clock ticking....my livingroom back at home where I would rock in my chair to the rhythm of the clock and I even now think of my cat, Dusty, who had to be put down back in November. He'd be curled up somewhere in the livingroom. Let me tell a little bit about
that story.
When I left East Jordan back in July of last year, my sister, Shirley, was driving me downstate where I would meet up with my daughter, Jessica, and they would eventually take me to the airport in Detroit. Hey, you know what? Now that I think back, we traveled to Detroit in the rain, too. Left Michigan in the rain and arrived in Shishmaref in the rain. Anyway, I told Shirley to go to the car and let me have a few minutes alone in the house. I scooped up my cat and hugged and petted him...and cried. I knew it was the last time I'd touch him and be able to smell his fur and talk to him. He wasn't well and I knew he'd never make it until I returned. Gosh, I have had so many pets and have had to watch them go. Dusty was 19 years old. My kids Skyped with me the night before he died....so I could see him one last time. Skype has been a godsend for me up here...over 3000 miles away from my family.
Oh, here's a funny one....! Just before I left Michigan to begin my school year up here, I received a jury duty notice in the mail....you know....the questionnaire you have to fill out and return under penalty of law and all that? Well, I filled it out with glee....and pointed out that I was moving to Alaska and I doubted they would want to call me for jury duty. I filled out the mileage part where they ask how many miles is it from your home to the courthouse....and I put something like 3,100 miles. I was never called for jury duty!
Back to the ECE building....we don't know if it will be here or not next year or if there will be a new building. It's an old building...1975....and it was built on marshy ground. I don't see how that could be avoided here on the island! Oh, I just heard last night that even the "big school" that is up on stilts settled some and the front doors were left ajar. Anyway, our building has a history of being many things...a bed and breakfast, a restaurant, part of the "big" school, the ECE building. Earlier this year, we noticed a crack in the ceiling and as the year rolled on, the crack widened and additional cracks began to appear in the walls and along the support beams. We finally shut down our program at the end of March and began looking for a place to hold class to finish out the year. We moved to the church basement thanks to the gracious approval of the church board and Pastor Mark. Our schedule had to change....three year olds going in the morning and four year olds going in the afternoon....but it worked. We didn't have running water out there...nor flushing toilets....but since most kids live with that anyway in their homes, it wasn't that big of a deal during school.
I suppose the other "big" story would be the "break-in" while I was here in the building. I had a guy jimmy his way into the building! The door was locked but he got in. He was surprised to see me and apologized several times if he scared me. He said he was just wanting to see what was happening to the building because he'd heard about it. Silly me....I didn't think much of it at the time. At first, I thought that it was one of my co-workers trying to get it and wiggling their key. Our door has been goofy...like a lot of things up here! But when I got to the entryway, it was this guy already coming in.
So...like I said, silly me. He started saying right away that he wanted to see the condition of the building so I showed him through the classrooms and chit-chatted. As we were walking back to the entryway, he pointed to one of the rooms and said he had had school in there (the building has been used for lots of things) and then he spied the vacuum and said he'd used that vacuum to clean in there before. Again, I'm still not thinking much about it because I've heard so many stories about the different people who have passed through that building at one time or
another. As he got to the door, he again apologized if he scared me and said he knew I was in the building because he saw my tracks leading in. Then he said he has seen several kids standing out by the door before and
that the door wasn't locked very securely. Then he left.
Now, I sat and pondered the "event" and thought it was strange that he jimmied the door knob until he got in.....even though he "saw my tracks and knew I was in there"....why didn't he knock? The more I thought about
it, the weirder it became. I was on Facebook and saw one of the custodians at the big school on there and mentioned it to him. He thought I should call the VPSO (cop) and tell him about it....and I did. I was finally able to reach staff from our building and they all showed up. We messed around with the door some more and realized that it doesn't take much at all to open it even when we think it's locked. This guy had probably been in the building before. The thing is....we don't think anything has been taken. It really could just be someone looking for some food. It's hard to say.
What's crazy about it is that I just chit-chatted with the guy and although it seemed a little strange that he jimmied the door to get in initially....I didn't "get it" until thinking about it more once I was alone. This guy was so self-assured when he walked in and seemed to know what he was talking about with the condition of the building and with saying he'd been a student there and such. Truth of the matter, he broke in....with me in there!! Thank goodness....nothing happened.
By the way, when I say things are "goofy" up here....I say that kindly. Let's just say things are "different." But it's important to point out that being "funny" doesn't mean being hilarious or silly. Nope...it means being "mean" to someone. I learned that early in the year when a child came to me to say that so-and-so was being "funny." I started laughing and saying, "Well, what is so-and-so doing to be funny?" That's when I found out that "funny" is actually "being mean" and now here I was laughing at the child trying to tell me the situation. Oh, well....sorry!
Oh, ERA just flew out on their morning flight. I didn't even hear them arrive this time...just saw them leave. The next flight out will carry several of our teachers. Others are going throughout the coming days. I leave on Tuesday, May 22. Another teacher will leave on June 18...she has reason to stay longer in the village!!! She has a "honey" here! Then the three new teachers will begin arriving. Our new assistant principal's parents and a couple of her siblings live here in SHH. She's married with children. Another one comes with a husband and son. The other two new teachers...I don't know a whole lot about them except that one is bringing up 100 lbs. of fish with him from his summer job as a fishing boat captain! One will be taking over this position in the ECE building. I wonder what she will observe out this back window in the months ahead. New adventures for new folks.
So many stories, so many thoughts and feelings. What a strange and exciting year this has been. I am looking forward to going back down to the Lower 48 for awhile. Some people up here will say I'm going "back to the United States" and I think they mean it! Shishmaref is so far removed from the continental United States and what that conjures up. But there are folks who proudly and fiercely hold onto what it means to be an Inupiat Eskimo and it is NOT the same as being a Caucasian in a town or city in the Lower 48. That is neither good nor bad....it just IS.
Consequently, I have strong feelings about what is expected up here in the school system when we are dealing with such a different culture and environment and such...and yet we have to "grade" these children against the expectations of the Lower 48....not fair, I tell you!
Nevertheless, countdown to "liftoff" has begun and I will leave on May 22. I will arrive in Milwaukee, Wisconsin on May 23 (it does take awhile to get flights and connections back to the continental US...we really are way out here). Oh, wait....that reminds me of something else I have found a bit humorous up here. People will often say, "Oh, I would love to come to Alaska. It's such a beautiful state. Can I come visit you?" Well, yes and no! Alaska IS a beautiful state...and vast. I was in awe of what I saw last July when I flew up to spend a few days in Anchorage. I look forward to being able to spend a few more days again touring the Anchorage and Kenai areas....and in the future, other spectacular locations throughout the State. BUT....where I live is NOT easily accessible. Anyone living in the "Bush" knows that it's not like anywhere else! You have to fly out of Anchorage to a "hub" which is where you will catch your smaller "bush" plane into your village. Speaking of which, on my last flight out of Nome, our pilot was one of the guys featured on "Flying Wild Alaska"! Anyway, the flight out is not cheap, folks. Well, just figure that a gallon of regular gasoline here in the village is over $7.00 so take it from there. Anyway, once you reach the hub, you then board your flight to your village. Once you reach your destination, it's not like you hail a taxi into the center of the village and find a motel or a restaurant. True, we do have Snack Shack up here but that's not always opened either. There are no motels...there are no taxis. You have to have made your plans to be picked up before you get here or in any other rural Alaskan village. You MUST have pick-up plans because the smaller villages do NOT have a terminal to go inside to get out of the frigid cold. Our staff was once dropped off at a airstrip to await our plane taking us back to SHH after an in-service. The vehicles dropping us off had to leave to drive the seven miles back to the school to pick up some other folks for a different plane. The problem is....our plane never arrived and after 45 minutes or so in -40 degree weather....it wasn't pleasant.
So, the answer is more like, "No, you probably won't come to visit unless you have saved up some money for the high plane fares AND you know someone up here to be able to stay with and will pick you up out at the airstrip."
On the other hand, IF you come up to visit, you are in for a wonderful experience. I do miss the trees up here in the tundra...the smell of pine and freshly-cut grass and the sound of a thunderstorm....but, I have seen some of the most incredible sunsets and Northern Lights and tundra ground cover and vast snowy views...and different animals and birds....and the people. I love just looking at the people. Their faces hold so many stories of what their ancestors have endured and learned and passed on. And their hands....so strong....and to know they have used them for gathering berries and eggs...for fishing and hunting....and for carving and sewing some of the most beautiful pieces of artwork I have ever seen.
Goodness, I can't forget the dogs....everywhere...curled up in the snow and wanting it no other way! I have been immensely thrilled at watching the dog mushing that goes on up here....from what I saw right here in the village and the stories I've heard from Bessie (raising and racing her own dogs) and Elizabeth (wife of the legendary Herbie Nayokpuk...the "Shishmaref Cannonball") to actually seeing and being right amongst the Iditarod mushers and dog teams this past year in Unalakleet. I couldn't have asked for a memorable experience.
Stay tuned....I'll be adding more once I get back to Michigan....or maybe I'll add some "tourist shots" of my long-awaited trip to Mt. Rushmore and the Badlands. Whew....talk about going from one temperature extreme to
another!
By the way, I WILL be returning to Shishmaref in August to teach another year. I will be in third grade next fall and in the "big" school. I'm sure I'll have lots more to share then.
Take care...I'll be back...soon....because I have some interesting pictures to share of springtime in Shishmaref!
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